博德加旅馆 Koh Phangan

Surrounded by a small garden of papaya, banana, tamarind and fresh herbs, this tranquil open-air eatery feels a world away from full-moon clichés. Booking is essential, as the chef prepares only the exact number of portions each day. The blind menu changes with fresh finds from the local market and pier, alongside seasonal fruits and edible flowers grown in the garden. Highlights include crisp yet juicy deep-fried fermented catfish, while the squid stir-fried with ink and shrimp paste shows off just how fresh the ingredients are.