Hifumi

Japanese cuisine reflects a spirit of gratitude for the bounty of nature and of prayer for people’s happiness. The chef values that spirit, pouring it into every dish he makes. The menu, woven from annual festivities, unfolds as a tale of the seasons. Skills honed at a ryotei live in the chef’s painstaking preparation and every detail of arrangements. The origins and customary usages of each cup and plate, related by the proprietress, add grace notes to the meal.

The crockery forms an essential part of the cuisine of Miyamoto. From a collection years in the making, each item is carefully selected to complement the item served on it. The arrangements remain simple to let this harmony shine, and there is a refreshing honesty in the chef’s unstinting use of ingredients. He honours the customs of Japanese cuisine yet cooks unbound by theory; he aspires to run a restaurant where he freely creates what is simply delicious. House-made udon is prepared according to the season. The purity of white rice cleanses the soul.

Located close to the beloved Osaka Temmangu Shrine, the ‘Yu’ in the restaurant’s name is a character in the name of the chef’s mentor. Apprenticing at an old-school Osaka kappo, the chef learned not only cooking skills but also the bold spirit of a chef who holds court behind the counter. Courteous yet charming, his gregarious manner keeps the conversation flowing. The format is omakase, but with the flexibility to indulge diners’ whims.

French cuisine and organic wine, presented by a nature-loving couple. Welcoming you into their parlour are the chef, a disciple of classic gastronomy, and the proprietress, a florist. To present the ideal bistro the name implies, the couple decorate the casual interior with flowers, fresh in season like the ingredients. Vegetables come from the good earth of their home farm in Wakayama, linking city and countryside through cuisine.

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.

Sea bream is marinated in kombu, gizzard shad in vinegar; sushi rice is seasoned with red vinegar and salt. The scrupulous training the chef received as an apprentice pervades every aspect of the restaurant. Nigirizushi begins with pale white-flesh fish. Tuna, served three pieces in succession, leaves an impact. Sushi rice is served on the warm side, the better to bring out the sweetness of the fish oil. Simmered conger eel brings the meal to a close, as in the old days. The restaurant stands on the river’s edge, so you can watch the boats plying the waters below as you dine.

The low-profile exterior, small billboard and stripped-down accoutrements express an understated Japanese architecture aesthetic. The goal here is cuisine of which one never tires. Rishiri kombu kelp is selected for the dashi stock drawn for soups, reassuring with its light flavour. Fermented seasonings are handmade fish sauces, provide the subtle seasoning that enhances other flavours. Relying on patient craftsmanship rather than fancy ingredients, Katamachi Kawaguchi impresses with technique and singular character.