La Gaffe

Cooking with fire is all the rage these days and Lita is an expert practitioner, although it also offers so much more. While there’s a strong Mediterranean and southern European element to the menu, prime British ingredients – such as Scottish lobster and Cornish turbot – along with big, bold flavours and well-made sauces really make the dishes sing. Many of the plates are designed for sharing, like dry-aged Devon duck with beetroot and kumquat. This is roll-up-your-sleeves sort of food – the type that leaves you licking your lips and planning your return.

'Never judge a book by its cover' certainly rings true here, as within this former pub sits a convivial and really quite stylish restaurant, where sophisticated cooking combines with efficient, unstuffy service. Alongside an à la carte, you have the option to ‘build your own’ 5 course tasting menu by selecting one dish from each of their ‘character’ profiles; these range from 'Subtle' (such as Acquerello risotto) to 'Robust' (roast lamb, perhaps) and finish with 'Greedy' for dessert. Top-notch ingredients and strong classical technique run throughout.

A light refurbishment in early 2025 freshened up the look of this ever-popular Indian restaurant, while the service remains as pitch perfect as ever: professional and attentive, without being stiff or formal. But what continues to make it special is the quality of its cuisine. Dishes inspired by India’s coastal cooking are not to be missed, like the generous and delicious Dorset brown crab or the Hariyali bream from the tandoor, but don’t ignore the more original offerings like beef short rib coconut fry. Look out for the special menus that celebrate India’s festivals and seasons.

Terse menu descriptions belie the quality of the cooking at this energisingly busy neighbourhood brasserie in Notting Hill. Excellent primary ingredients are at the core, which are lovingly treated by the kitchen team, with highly skilled wood-fired grilling a feature of the menu; grab a seat at the counter to get a view of the chefs in action. Dishes vary from single-bite snacks such as creamy liver parfait toast to shared main courses like deliciously filling Limousin veal chop with vin jaune. First-timers should follow the friendly service team's advice on what – and how much – to order.

Maida Vale residents hit the jackpot when the owners of Notting Hill’s The Pelican chose this neighbourhood for the location of their third venture. The Hero is like a blueprint for how to sympathetically restore and update a pub, and has been understandably packed since Day One. The same menu and warm, buzzy atmosphere can be found across both floors, with traditional pub dishes at the heart – expect the likes of mince on toast, egg mayonnaise with smoked eel or a chicken and tarragon pie. Engaging service is the final touch on a wonderful experience.

Hearty British dishes which are big on flavour are the order of the day at this sympathetically refurbished Victorian pub. The ground floor bar has a lively buzz and the more sedate first floor dining room opens later in the week. The terrific mushroom tempura is a prime example of what this kitchen does well: straightforward, moreish dishes that come in generous portions. Lovely bedrooms and a friendly, attentive team complete the picture.

The two garçons in question are Robert Reid and JC Slowik, both stalwarts of the London restaurant scene, and their experience is here to see in every element of this immensely likeable French bistro, which is far bigger than their previous place and thus better for coping with demand. Expect all the classics to be found on the menu or blackboard, whether that’s duck confit or escargots; the baba au rhum is not to be missed and the all-French wine list is appealing priced.