大阪瑞吉酒店

The name is a mashup of the name of the couple who founded the restaurant and the phrase ‘bumbu-ryodo’, ‘accomplished in both literary and military arts’. The phrase expresses the spirit of the chef, who devotes himself to both cooking and service. The third-generation chef commands the kitchen, guarding the flavours inherited from the first. Unmoved by an age that craves all things new, the chef passes on the handiwork and cuisine of the good old days. The simmered vegetable assortment is one example. With skilful knife work and carefully calibrated addition of dashi, the chef brings guests t

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.

La Bécasse aspires to greet guests with something new and exciting every time they visit. Rather than follow past recipes, the restaurant enlivens familiar ingredients with creative preparation techniques and sauces. A sojourn in France taught the chef the importance of terroir, the characteristics of the land from which sprouts the character of each ingredient. To convey the blessings of each season, the chef visits markets daily, seeking new ways to reflect Japanese terroir through French cooking.

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.