大溪老城四季行館桃園市民宿058號

This shop began as a street stall over 60 years ago. Into the third generation, the family business still attracts diners in droves with good old comfort food. Its eponymous ang gu noodles see springy and thick oil noodles tossed in aromatic scallion oil with chives and bean sprouts. Ribbon rice noodle soup is another crowd stopper. For a range of textures, try three-brother soup with taro, mushrooms, and squid ink pork balls in pork bone broth.

Opened in 2000, this place has a retro and rustic feel. The chef from Kaohsiung, whose culinary career spans over 30 years, is of half Hakkanese descent and a keen advocate of Hakkanese food preservation culture: he incorporates various dried, pickled and fermented condiments into his menu. Try his steamed sea bass with the house-made pineapple sauce – pineapple and fermented soybeans are aged with liquorice and salt for three months to develop tangy depth.