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Apprenticing at a bistro in Paris, the chef was captivated by its lively energy. At L'AMITIE, he has put down roots in Takadanobaba with this intimate diner where you can feel like part of the daily life of France. Offerings include meat terrine À la campagne, cassoulet and beef cheek simmered in red wine. À la carte items are prepared for two, so you can enjoy sharing. Savour Gallic culinary culture and the ambience of the French countryside.

Unagi are dressed, skewered and grilled over high-grade charcoal. From the counter seats, the whole series of cooking scenes can be observed. The unagi are kept alive in purifying tanks until they are dressed, then dipped three times in sauce and grilled Edo-style. Sauce is used sparingly, letting the flavour of the fish speak for itself. Rice cooked somewhat firm, and freshly ground sansho pepper deliver a distinctive touch. Skilful restraint shows in the short steaming time and sparing use of sauce.

With close cooperation with food producers as his creed, the chef devotes himself to his 100% buckwheat juwari soba. He only uses ingredients native to Japan, to convey the charm of old-school soba. Depending where his ingredients come from, his soba may be served on a wickerwork tray, and may be either coarse-ground or ground with husks included. His inquiring mind drives him to check each day’s soba, adjusting thickness and serving temperature according to its nature. His diligent application is raising soba to new levels, as his many regulars would agree.

‘Novel yet nostalgic Western food’ is the theme here. Hamburger steaks with dollops of demi-glace sauce and gratin dressed in silky smooth béchamel sauce are prepared in time-honoured ways, bringing back the flavours of the good old days. Decompression-prepared salad offers rich flavours and uniquely fresh textures. Unchanging methods combine with advanced cooking techniques declare a new approach to Western favourites.

Sushi items lined up inside a glass display case ooze Showa-era ambience. A sushi shop of the old school, and that’s how the chef likes it. Cutting and serving the sushi himself, the chef offers everything from omakase set menus to à la carte. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce; conger eel is coated in a thick, sweet eel sauce; and egg is served ‘kurakake’ or ‘saddle-style’: layered into a cake and split over a bite-sized mound of vinegared rice. The character for ‘sushi’ combines the characters for ‘fish’ and ‘delicious’. The pursuit of essential Edo style expresses the chef’s pride in his craft

The counter spreads like a fan, so guests surround the kitchen. Chef and apprentice serve snacks and nigiri in turn, moving in perfect harmony. The house snack is iwashi-isobemaki, bite-sized pieces of pilchard wrapped in nori. Old-school sushi craftsmanship is woven in, such as spring sea bream topped with sweetened egg yolk flakes and lean tuna paired with mustard. In mutual support between restaurateur and farmers, sushi rice comes from the chef’s native Noto Peninsula. The team keeps the sushi smoothly flowing with deft motions, serving each guest with just the right intervals. ‘Takumi’ me

Hideki Ishikawa’s guiding principle is ‘mui-shizen’: serve cuisine that is true to nature, free from artifice. Flavours are light, respecting each ingredient. Simplicity makes presentations all the more impressive, with consideration for harmony among flavours. Niigata rice is cooked fresh and served in earthen bowls, imparting the taste of the chef’s homeland. Kitchen and service staff work together with the practised solidarity of a well-rehearsed team.