东京喜来登都酒店

Tomoya Kawada sees cooking as a reconciliation between nature and humanity. He names his approach Sazenka, which literally means ‘tea-Zen-Chinese’, out of a desire to create Chinese fare that mediates between the worlds of tea and Zen. His cuisine harmoniously combines the techniques he learned in China with the soul and spiritual features of Japan – ‘wakon-kansai’ is the theme. Japanese ingredients in season are used in spring-roll fillings and Sichuan stir-fries, lending a seasonal dimension to Chinese cuisine.

The chef was a fishmonger before pursuing the path of the sushi artisan. Every sushi piece he forms is an expression of gratitude to the fishermen and wholesalers. The meal begins with hand-delivered negitoromaki (roll sushi of tuna and green onions). Pairing rolls of monkfish liver and kanpyo (dried gourd) with sweet, thick kijoshu is inspired by how foie gras matches so well with botrytised wine. The omakase set menu is wonderfully satisfying with its generous selection of items. Add to all this the three requisites of good service: awareness, attentiveness and smiles. No wonder reservations

The pet theory here is that French cuisine does not add but multiplies: dishes are the product, not the sum, of their ingredients. The speciality is an espuma of sea urchin and Jerusalem artichoke, which is replaced with onion during summer. Food from sea and mountain mix, aiming at just the right temperature to melt in the mouth. To ensure consistency, vegetables are harvested from the chef’s own garden. Financier, served after the meal, offers a wry nod to the restaurant’s name, with a play on both the pastry and the financier as one who benefits from gold, echoing the alchemist’s quest to t

The chef has devoted his life to the path of the tempura craftsman. He watches his pot in silence, focusing on the sound of the oil. Frying his tempura on high heat, he teases out moisture to concentrate the flavour. Creative flourishes are avoided, letting the deliciousness of ingredients in season speak for itself. Batter thickness and flame heat are continually adjusted to produce a light and airy tempura. A traditional Japanese tea-house carpenter created the interior, transforming it into a graceful space.

For Joël Robuchon, ‘emperor of French cuisine’, this eponymous restaurant is the jewel in the crown of the company. Kenichiro Sekiya, recipient of the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) and heir to both the spirit and cuisine of his famous mentor, uses Japanese ingredients to breathe new life into French gastronomy. His interpretation of Le Caviar Imperial evolves from generation to generation. Even the trolley service is the pinnacle of luxury. A table of magnificence as befits the hall of the emperor.

Chef Koichi Katsumata pours his devotion into his fruit selections, which he gathers as he calls on farms throughout Japan. Flavours variously embrace citrus fruits, mangoes, peaches, figs, and chestnuts as the seasons change. Each course offers variations in fragrance, texture and temperature, and through the incorporation of vegetables. The chef was born in Yamanashi Prefecture in the imposing presence of Mt. Fuji, hence the name of the establishment (yama means ‘mountain’). Yama demonstrates that, like the rugged Japanese islands so rich in peaks and valleys, pure sweetness can take a wide

The name combines two of the four characters of Haruhiko Yamamoto’s name. The chef’s approach to cuisine and commitment to entertaining guests were both learned from his mentor in Gifu. He is also enthusiastic about guiding the next generation, as shown by the smiles and positive attitude of his young crew. Yamamoto may surprise with innovative dishes, but with wansashi—the pairing of sashimi and soup, considered the essence of Japanese cuisine—he stays true to tradition. Each item is the product of painstaking effort the customer never sees.