S-peria Inn 大阪本町

‘Basque cuisine you can taste only at Alarde’ is the theme, as the chef matches recipes studied in the Basque Country to ingredients found in Japan. His passion shines in the wagyu beef cooked in a stone oven. Fire is built from charcoal and firewood, then grapevines are added to wreathe the beef in smoky aromas. While you’re waiting for the meat to cook, treat yourself to some pinchos or mixed rice. Experience the world of Basque food culture.

The inspiration for the name ‘Différence’, is a desire to provide a space to spend time away from the quotidian cares of life. The uniform white of the dining room, with its otherworldly milieu, reflects this aesthetic. The concept is ‘French with a sense of Japan’, so the focus is on food grown and raised in Japan. Desserts infused with vegetables to impart a sense of season and pastries combining two favourite Japanese confections, yokan and daifuku, are unique touches. Enjoy flavours and dining a little different from the ordinary.

Food conveys the seasons and culture of Japan. The curved earthen walls were fashioned by a plaster craftsman; the Japanese serving-ware was made in collaboration with contemporary ceramic artists. The chef draws inspiration for his cuisine from the strong relationships he fosters with food producers. Consommé made with essence of vegetables and fish is paired with house-made fermented foods. Working closely with producers, the chef creates French cuisine unique to Japan.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

The name is a mashup of the name of the couple who founded the restaurant and the phrase ‘bumbu-ryodo’, ‘accomplished in both literary and military arts’. The phrase expresses the spirit of the chef, who devotes himself to both cooking and service. The third-generation chef commands the kitchen, guarding the flavours inherited from the first. Unmoved by an age that craves all things new, the chef passes on the handiwork and cuisine of the good old days. The simmered vegetable assortment is one example. With skilful knife work and carefully calibrated addition of dashi, the chef brings guests t

The chef’s creed is devotion to his craft heart and soul. Having learned this attitude to cooking from his mentor at Taian, where he apprenticed, he constantly burnishes his culinary skills through meticulous attention to ingredient selection, food preparation methods and use of dishware. One vital contributor to his menus is the charcoal flame. The chef’s experience speaks through his pan-seared sashimi and grilled dishes wreathed in aromatic smoke. Inventiveness and painstaking diligence create cuisine that impresses.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.