San Po Hotel - Fuzhou Pushang

Opened in 2020 as the premium version of a longstanding Fuzhou institution, Jing Li targets an upmarket business clientele. Burgundy seats and details grace the elegant wood-rich interior. On the menu, local Minnan classics are creatively melded with other cuisines. The dishes made with red yeast rice wine lees, such as the deep-fried wine lees-marinated eel, and longevity noodles with pork trotter braised in wine lees, are particular standouts.

The restaurant is located in a historic area where many famous scholars lived during the North Song Dynasty. The interior sports original architectural details, while the menu pays homage to traditional Fujian food culture. The head chef has been cooking professionally for over 30 years; his sliced conch in red vinasse sauce accentuates the briny-sweet taste of the sea snail. Hand-pounded rice cake is the perfect companion to any seafood dish.

Founded by Lin Yi Nen over 40 years ago, this no-frills shop has moved many times, but always within the same neighbourhood. Its bestseller is old-time comfort food – pork blood curd soup with noodles or rice vermicelli. The noodles are toothsome and velvety and toppings, like pork offal and pork blood curd, are served in separate dishes. The spongy pork blood curd soaks up the flavoursome clear broth and every bite bursts with umami.

The interior sports a tasteful green colour scheme with plant motifs and fish scale tiles for a style poised between Jiangnan and Fuzhou. In the same vein, the menu features authentic Huaiyang classics alongside Fujian produce and Minnan twists. Braised yellow croaker ‘lion’s head’ meatball impresses with rich silky texture and deep umami. Consider pre-ordering the ginger eight-treasure duck. Each of the 12 private rooms is equipped with tea serving facilities.

The owner, a returnee from Australia, has worked closely with the chef to develop two tasting menus that mirror the seasons. Bearing a strong European slant, the menus star first-rate produce from around the world, occasionally featuring the local condiments for which Fuzhou is famous, such as red wine lees and laver. The owner also doubles as the sommelier – ask him to pair the food with libations from the extensive wine list.

Just a stone's throw from the famous Yongde Guild Hall, this restaurant in the Shangxiahang Historical District is made up of the restored buildings housing private rooms, a main dining room and a tea parlour. The menu is mostly Fujianese, with a few Cantonese options and original creations. The Yongchun white duck soup impresses with deep herbal aromas; the Xiamen Sha Cha seafood hot pot with abalone, squid, oysters and shrimps is too good to miss.

This restaurant founded in the 1960s may look a bit dated, but the incredible smell of beef never fails to lure us in. Despite strong local competition, Yi Qiang stands out with their longstanding Fuzhou recipes, such as beef rib soup, beef offal and ground beef meatballs, served with noodles and buns. Their beef rib soup is mildly perfumed with Chinese herbs, emphasising the robust, beefy flavour. Pair with a basket of xiao long bao.