Takatsuki W and M Hotel

A Japanese restaurant at the foot of the Minoh mountains. The head chef weaves the turning of the seasons into his menu. Hassun platters are arranged on large plates using several small dishes, then garnished with leaves gathered on the mountainside. Tempura, prepared with rice oil, is light in texture. If you reserve a seat on the ground floor, the tempura master will fry each piece right before your eyes. Dine with relish on the bounty of nature, serenaded by the murmuring Minoh River.

Techniques from every genre of Japanese cuisine are used for tempura; items may be pre-cooked or lightly scored and seasoned to bring out their natural flavour before frying. Keen to highlight Kansai ingredients, the chef stocks octopus, pike conger and tilefish. Osaka flourished as a centre of cotton production, so the chef cooks with a unique cottonseed oil in solidarity with producers. A beacon of Naniwa food culture to the world, with imaginative twists.

Light French cuisine is the aim of chef Masashi Anpeiji. He even apprenticed in the south of France as he was drawn to how they favour olive oil over butter and cream. While still emphasising sauces, he takes great care to showcase high-quality Japanese ingredients. Presentations are brilliantly coloured and delicately prepared. Edible flowers, herbs, and citrus fruits add refreshing notes of sweetness and sourness. A breeze from the south of France wafts through the streets of Fushimi.

Scrupulous attention is paid to the ceremonial space, cuisine, serving vessels and sense of the seasons. The chef learned his guiding principles at a restaurant in Hozenji Alley. Entrusted with preparing the appetiser platters, he became schooled in the knowledge and aesthetics of Japanese cuisine. Aiming for artistic beauty in all aspects, he grows his own flowers to decorate the sukiya interior and collects seasonal serving vessels to delight guests. Technique, experience and sensibility all merge to create assortments of dishes that celebrate the seasons and their festivals.

The crockery forms an essential part of the cuisine of Miyamoto. From a collection years in the making, each item is carefully selected to complement the item served on it. The arrangements remain simple to let this harmony shine, and there is a refreshing honesty in the chef’s unstinting use of ingredients. He honours the customs of Japanese cuisine yet cooks unbound by theory; he aspires to run a restaurant where he freely creates what is simply delicious. House-made udon is prepared according to the season. The purity of white rice cleanses the soul.

The star of the menu is the bounty of the Hokuriku region. Seafood is delivered from the chef’s native Ishikawa Prefecture; seafood from every part of Ishikawa express the shifting seasons: Noto abalone, Nanao egg cockles, Chirihama oysters, and Kanaiwa male snow crab. As he cooks on an earthen charcoal brazier, the chef holds forth on their particular qualities and the passion of the fishermen with whom he does business. The restaurant name derives from the historic Higashi Chaya district of Kanazawa. From behind the counter, the chef waxes eloquent on the charms of his birthplace.

The chef spent years fine-tuning his skills in a Japanese restaurant in Hozenji Yokocho. While treasuring the lessons he learned there, he now blazes his own culinary trail. Mindful of how knife technique can affect the flavour of sashimi, he practises daily and his grounded approach to cooking is reassuring to watch. Bringing together everything he has learned over his career, he expresses it in cuisine of the ‘here and now’. Rather than just copy his mentor, the chef treads his own path in the gastronomic world.