La vache sur le toit

Set on the banks of the Loire, this inn, refurbished in a tasteful modern vein, is the bolthole of Marie and Fabien Raux (born in northern France, the chef’s eclectic career has taken him to fine establishments from Morocco to Alsace). The chef crafts dishes in the zeitgeist, curated into a single set menu and starring seasonal produce. The vegetables come straight from the nearly 5 acres of garden and orchard that supply 90% of the restaurant’s needs, even in winter! The remainder is sourced from a handful of local producers: Loire zander, lamb, rabbit… Everything tastes of something in this

In this 16C château, where period terracotta floor tiles meet stone fireplaces, chef Julien Laval – who previously worked at Restaurant Serge Vieira in Chaudes-Aigues and was a finalist in the French Dessert Championship – is truly coming into his own. His indulgent modern dishes combine top-notch ingredients with a judicious use of international details, and are meticulously presented – take, for example, the foie gras terrine topped with a green tea and hibiscus jelly, served with lychee chutney in kumquat vinegar, or the Dombes duckling prepared two ways: cooked whole and pastilla, accompan

On the banks of the River Loire, this restaurant is run by a local chef, whose trademark is delicious market-fresh cuisine. He serves an affordable set menu at lunchtime and a more elaborate monthly set menu. He carefully sources his ingredients, giving local produce pride of place: foie gras from Domaine de Limagne, trout caught in the Oron, beef from a farmer-butcher in Renaison, Roanne saffron and organic vegetables from Arfeuilles. A lovely cheese trolley is presented in the dining room.

You are sure to feel right at home in this charming stone-built inn set in a picturesque little wine-growing village. In a chic and cosy setting, the surprise set menu (only the ingredients are listed) stars seasonal produce, which are presented in carefully crafted dishes. This skilfully prepared and delicious cuisine is classic at first glance, but often scattered with unorthodox notes (Japanese chilli condiment, Maury-chocolate sauce etc). There are a few comfortable guestrooms for overnight stays.

This emblematic Beaujolais establishment, which continues to honour its rich legacy, is the HQ of Aurélien Merot. The chef delicately and indulgently pampers regional produce with a soft spot for jus and sauces: slow-baked fario trout from Isère, almonds and sorrel sauce; Bresse poultry cooked in Fleurie wine (the house specialty)… Excellent value for money (the lunchtime menu is a bargain!) plus an impressive wine list.

Frédéric Doucet's restaurant is a creative and exciting take on established ideas of terroir and tradition. The son of bistro owners, he was born into the business, and cut his teeth in the kitchens of some of the greats, from Pierre Orsi and Paul Bocuse to the prestigious Maison Troisgros. In his premises nestled in the heart of a village with pointed towers and weathered roofs, the chef breaks it down for diners: nothing but fine ingredients from Saône-et-Loire (including Charolais beef, snails, pike and goat's cheese), prepared with rigorously applied classical techniques that do not exclud

In 1984, Guy Lassausaie took over the kitchen at this family-run establishment, founded four generations earlier in 1906. In an elegantly refurbished interior done out in shades of grey, black and white, the chef (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France) has charted a remarkably assured course, enthusiastically celebrating local and, more generally, French tradition, with flashes of creativity. Think fillet of brill with vanilla beurre blanc, salsify and porcini, or Ain pigeon hay-roasted in a sealed cocotte, full-bodied jus and baby vegetables. Feelgood food that delivers the odd surprise.