Hananosato Onsen Sansuikan

Hideaki Matsuo expresses traditional Japanese culture, guided by the traditional cycle of twenty-four seasons. The chef’s messages on the menu are designed to conjure up scenes of nature in front of guests’ eyes, while seasonal flavours and annual events are woven into the cuisine in truly elegant ways. At an Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan event, Matsuo showcased Osaka food culture to the world. He warmly welcomes trainees from overseas, dedicating himself to the development and progress of the industry.

Techniques from every genre of Japanese cuisine are used for tempura; items may be pre-cooked or lightly scored and seasoned to bring out their natural flavour before frying. Keen to highlight Kansai ingredients, the chef stocks octopus, pike conger and tilefish. Osaka flourished as a centre of cotton production, so the chef cooks with a unique cottonseed oil in solidarity with producers. A beacon of Naniwa food culture to the world, with imaginative twists.

Light French cuisine is the aim of chef Masashi Anpeiji. He even apprenticed in the south of France as he was drawn to how they favour olive oil over butter and cream. While still emphasising sauces, he takes great care to showcase high-quality Japanese ingredients. Presentations are brilliantly coloured and delicately prepared. Edible flowers, herbs, and citrus fruits add refreshing notes of sweetness and sourness. A breeze from the south of France wafts through the streets of Fushimi.

The father-and-son team, along with their wives, offer a warm welcome to this kappo with deep roots in Saga. You can order à la carte or omakase style. Fish dishes are the stars of the menu, prepared in a number of ways: steamed with salt and sake, grilled, or however you like. Eel are prepared both unseasoned and dipped in soy-based sauce for you to taste and compare. At lunch the menu of boiled tofu and hiryuzu (deep-fried tofu mixed with thinly sliced vegetable) is the attraction. Treasuring its links with the region it calls home, Okina gets its tofu from Saga.

Scrupulous attention is paid to the ceremonial space, cuisine, serving vessels and sense of the seasons. The chef learned his guiding principles at a restaurant in Hozenji Alley. Entrusted with preparing the appetiser platters, he became schooled in the knowledge and aesthetics of Japanese cuisine. Aiming for artistic beauty in all aspects, he grows his own flowers to decorate the sukiya interior and collects seasonal serving vessels to delight guests. Technique, experience and sensibility all merge to create assortments of dishes that celebrate the seasons and their festivals.

A procession of dishes that linger in the diner’s memory. Seasonal flavours are used in generous measure, such as Japanese pepper flower, pike conger, matsutake mushrooms and crab. Preparation methods, whether that be grilling, boiling or more, are astutely tailored to each ingredient, showcasing its qualities from every angle. This talent for bringing out the best in food is born of long years of experience. A favourite haunt of the literati, the Uozuya sign calligraphy is by essayist Masako Shirasu.

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.