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1
The Royal Oak
Modern British · ★ Michelin
£££
There's no shortage of history at The Royal Oak; it's reputedly one of the oldest pubs in the country and Oliver Cromwell is said to have stayed here in 1642. A strong farm-to-fork ethos runs throughout the menu, pushing organic and wild ingredients to the fore, while game is often shot to order. Assured, understated dishes are created with obvious care and a delicate touch – most have just three or four components (cod, parsnip and dulse with a cider and tarragon sauce, for instance), which allows each first-class ingredient to really shine. Charming service helps things along nicely.
5.5km
2
The Chandlers Arms
Modern Cuisine
£££
It may sit within a 17C former pub, but there’s now more of a restaurant feel to this intimate family-run operation – where you’re guaranteed a warm welcome. The regularly updated menus showcase cooking that is well-balanced, thoughtfully composed and makes great use of the local larder. Flavour and texture combinations are both original and effective, in dishes largely served by chef Harry Flockhart himself. When the weather allows, head for the terrace.
4.0km
3
Bastardo's Trattoria
Italian
£££
Situated right in the centre of this historic market town and encased within glass walls on three sides, this self-described ‘illegitimate trattoria’ is a love letter to straightforward Italian cooking, fused with seasonal British ingredients. In the day, it operates as the coffee shop and bakery Ferment & Flour, before the Italian vibe takes over in the evening. Start with a couple of cicchetti before one of the stand-out homemade pastas, be that casarecce with preserved wild garlic, truffle and parmesan, or well-crafted crab agnolotti. Add in friendly service and you have a winning formula.
5.7km
4
The Bower House
Modern British
££
An appealing mixture of the vintage and the contemporary lend a certain stylishness to the décor at this smart brasserie occupying two former shops in the heart of a small market town. The attractive dishes are packed with flavour and make the most of quality British produce, as with delicious, sweet Cornish crab turned into a simple, fresh-tasting tartlet. Sit in the larger room with its comfy banquettes and copper-topped tables, then treat yourself to a stay in one of the characterful bedrooms.
5.7km
5
Fuzzy Duck
Modern British
££
Siblings Adrian and Tania – owners of toiletries company Baylis & Harding – preside over this immaculately kept pub. It was once a boarded-up boozer, but these days a loving touch and keen eye have seen it reestablished as a welcoming, fashionably attired inn with bedrooms to match. The cooking mixes timeless British pub fare, like a prawn cocktail or a Scotch egg, with more modern and playful options like the 'quack and chips' – confit duck leg with a spiced gravy and refreshing carrot and sesame salad.
8.9km
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