隐居东京

Asakusa is a second hometown for the chef, who has lived here since his apprenticeship. He inherited both spirit and skill, along with tools and serving ware, from his mentor. He reveres the old teachings of the sushi world but does add a few twists of his own. He adds sweet potato shochu to rich soy syrup; to rolled omelette, he adds soy milk. The character for the chef’s surname of ‘Oku’ developed from a combination of the characters for ‘house’, ‘rice’ and ‘palm of hand’; a sign, he contends, that he was destined to run a place where he would fashion rice meals with his hands.

Black, white and orange are the tricolore of ‘Watanabe-ism.’ Black represents faith that cannot be tainted; white, the freedom to become any colour; and orange, the flame manipulated by the chef. On offer here is a fusion of French and Edo food cultures. Sobagaki is emulsified using French techniques; local Japanese elements include kaminari-okoshi, a roasted and flavoured mochi cracker; and monaka, a sweet of azuki bean paste sandwiched between crisp wafers. Watanabe-ism has deep roots in Asakusa-Komagata.

‘Tonkatsu is food for the masses’, explains the second-generation chef, as he aims to serve up fare that is familiar and comforting. Copper pots polished till gleaming and plain wooden counters display a craftsman’s spirit. Two pots are used: one containing hot oil and the other cooler oil. Pork loin is shorn of extra fat and thinly battered. Tonkatsu is the star attraction, so no meat is added to the pork miso soup. As the chef works, a photo of his father in chef’s whites watches over him.

This family has been serving onigiri in Asakusa for three generations. Ingredients are arrayed inside a glass case, as at a sushi shop, to be formed into onigiri on the spot. Offerings range from salmon and dried plum to rarer items such as herring roe pickled in sake lees and opossum shrimp preserved and simmered in sweetened soy sauce. Offering a wide range of ingredients allows customers to choose based on their physical condition; the area was once home to numerous bars and pubs, so customers would drop in for morsels to soothe constitutions punished by a night on the town.

Asakusa Hirayama hangs out its shop curtain near Kappabashi; the calligraphy is done by the chef’s grandmother, a calligraphy teacher, expressing her joy in her grandson becoming an independent restaurateur. The counter seating harks back to his background as a kappo cook and his cheerful demeanour makes guests feel welcome. Soba is preceded by standards like jellied broth of conger eel or stew of duck breast. Tempura items are deep-fried one by one, as good as you’d find in a tempura specialty shop. The 100% buckwheat soba noodles, prepared with homemade flour made with unpolished buckwheat,

‘Tentenkyokyo’ carries the heartfelt wish that guests will enjoy tempura and soba to their heart’s content. Shiba shrimp, skewered and deep-fried, is a standard of soba-shop tempura beloved since the Edo period. Although the sea from which shiba shrimp were once harvested has been reclaimed as land, the tradition lives on. Shiba-shrimp tempura embodies the spirit of Edo, and the food culture resonates even today. For your omakase set menu, you can choose whether to include small dishes in the bill of fare or focus solely on tempura.

The name means ‘behind’, as in ‘behind the MICHELIN two-star restaurant out front’. In contrast to HOMMAGE, the purveyor of creative cuisine, noura is a homelike bistro that sticks to the basics. French onion soup, fish quenelle and duck confit are some of the French regional dishes on offer. Steak frîtes, a French comfort food, are a crowd-pleaser. This is French food culture for everyday life.