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The impressive open kitchen acts almost like a stage at this passionately run restaurant, with all six tables positioned to face the chefs and a couple of front-row counter seats for those wanting the full experience. It's a family affair, with Chef Alex Naik joined by his parents and sister, who run the service. The tasting menu is filled with terse dish descriptions that underplay the ambitious and detailed creations, whose greatest strength is the high-quality ingredients, which are often local and seasonal, including some foraged elements.

Brownsea Island and Poole Harbour can be seen from many of the tables at this superbly located bistro on the water's edge. Unsurprisingly in a place like this, fish and shellfish dominate the menu. Sometimes the produce is treated with international influences, as with the Kerala seafood curry, but the majority of mains involve whole fish cooked over fire, imparting a gentle smokiness while keeping the flesh succulent and adding a crispy skin.