云禅莲酒店

Named after the provincial flower of Hunan, this brand is part of the Xin Rong Ji Group. It serves Hunanese classics such as steamed fish head with chopped chilli that packs a punch. Pork tripe soup with pickled radish cooked in a casserole over charcoal imparts tangy, briny depth. Softshell turtle is another speciality, either steamed with yellow chilli or red braised. The smaller "horse-hoof" variety is perfect for a party of two.

This is the first Beijing branch of the Taizhou brand famous for super-fresh, top-notch seafood shipped from the East China Sea daily. Wild-caught yellow croaker is the mainstay of a menu that keeps pace with availability, however, brown croaker is also a firm favourite for many, and whether it is crafted into dumplings that burst with juices or minced and braised into springy ‘lion head’ meatballs, it always delivers succulent flavours and textures.

This upmarket restaurant in Chaozhou is another gem from the F&B chain. Chef Gu, who hails from the city, has been cooking professionally for over 30 years. His menu is based on tradition but imbued with creativity. The boneless pigeon stuffed with bird's nest in matsutake broth delivers striking layers of textures. Professional wine and tea sommeliers take care of the libations. Chinese reds and whites aside, try the phoenix tea brewed with spring water.

The flagship establishment of the chain has been around for over 30 years. The kitchen team of Hubei natives is picky about its ingredients, most of which are shipped daily from their home province to ensure freshness. The menu changes according to the 24 solar terms in the Chinese calendar and stars the best seasonal produce. Long-snout catfish with tomato boasts silky flesh and a tangy, mildly spicy sauce. Sautéed young lotus seeds are sweet and crispy.

The second-generation owner of this family-run shop still follows the original c. 1920 recipes. The establishment is packed at peak times, so expect to queue, serve yourself and share a table with strangers. Order the signature braised beef by the catty – about 0.5 catty per person. Specify whether you want it fatty or lean. Plain noodles in beef broth come in two sizes. The flavoursome broth and toothsome noodles are a match made in heaven.

中餐

As the name suggests, the kitchen is helmed by chefs hailing from the Sichuanese city of Yibin, from whence most of the ingredients are shipped, before they are cooked in authentic Yibin style. The menu is extensive and the portions generous. Try Lizhuang boiled pork, and Yibin noodles with bean sprouts dressed in a nutty, spicy sauce. Reservations are not accepted, so expect to queue at mealtimes, often for over an hour.