台北远东香格里拉

‘De nuit’ in French translates as ‘by night’ and the room aptly sports a black, grey and blue colour scheme, dotted with brass trim and velvet upholstery. The young kitchen team is led by the Hong Kong head chef, whose 8- and 10-course set menus are rooted in French traditions and driven by the seasons. They cleverly layer textures and flavours with aplomb and a light hand in signatures like lamb with harissa, or salmon with gooseberry.

Chef Wachi Isao is known for his insistence on freshness and his skilful layering of flavours. He serves omakase menus only, with items varying daily. The menus feature mostly raw fish and nigiri sushi at lunch; more cooked kappo dishes are served at dinner. The soup course stands out for its detail-oriented preparation – the minced fish dumpling made with seasonal produce forms the perfect marriage with the kelp bonito stock's nuances.

Hosu moved here in 2024, and the decor revolves around eco-friendly principles – a native five-needle pine adorns the courtyard; the walls are covered in oyster shell paint. The chef's 14-course set menu is a compilation of the greatest dishes of Taiwan's five major group of population. Featuring gems from local mountains and waters, it follows the seasons. Interactive elements make for a fun experience.

The Argentinian owner-chef reimagines Latam cuisine through a distinctly Taiwanese lens. His tasting menu pays tribute to his cultural and culinary heritage, layering contrasts and flavours with all the finesse of haute cuisine. Locally sourced produce plays a pivotal role in dishes from short-neck clams in a tangy sauce made with chilli, parsley, coriander and pepper to salad greens dressed in wasabi leaf oil, or guava dusted with plum powder.

A floral display provides pops of colour in this pristine white cube that calls to mind an art gallery. Chef Alain Huang's tasting menus comprise 10-plus creative courses that are French in origin but influenced by Asian cuisines, wine or alcohol-free drinks inclusive. Top-notch ingredients such as king prawn, scallop and veal are meticulously prepared and beautifully presented. Your meal is bookended by stunning amuse-bouches and petit fours.

In line with its name (the Latin word for ‘plum blossom’), the relaxed and friendly MUME generously garnishes dishes with fresh herbs and flowers – in somewhat stark contrast to the dimly-lit faux-industrial interior of the restaurant itself. On the menu, seasonal Taiwanese ingredients are melded with Nordic influences and modern techniques are used effectively to create dishes that provide contrasts in tastes and textures.

This is the place for a high-end omakase-style experience with a curated selection of tempura. Cherry-picked seasonal ingredients are coated in a light, golden, crispy batter that seals in the flavours and juices. The final product doesn’t taste at all greasy, is perfectly cooked with delicate textures. With 16 counter seats in two rooms, all the guests can admire the art of tempura up close.