Le Port de Decize

Over more than 30 years, this chef has built up a loyal clientele of happy diners courtesy of his contemporary cuisine featuring nods to the Mediterranean, in dishes such as bouillabaisse jus and carpaccio of large wild prawns. The yakitori sauce on the duck fillet is one of his more exotic marriages. You can choose to dine in either the contemporary space or the former 14C cloister.

In a quiet street bang in the heart of Moulins, we don't need to be asked twice to take a seat in the snug dining area. In the equally dinky kitchen, the chef-owner crafts honest, homely, seasonal fare, illustrated by provençal aïoli with loin of cod and whelks, or grilled duck breast with lemon-spiked polenta and moussaka-style stuffed courgette.

From his open kitchen, the chef consummately crafts dishes such as low-temperature arctic char, flanked with a velvety gribiche sauce and a crunchy salad of fennel. The single set lunchtime menu is a steal – all the better when leisurely sampled on the delightful, cobbled patio in summertime.

This rustic village house is the lair of Maud Millet, who conjures up stylish, flavoursome, signature cuisine that is entirely made from scratch – from the bread to the charcuterie made out of organic Gascony pigs raised by her hubbie, Benoît, who also lends a hand in the dining room. The focus is on cherry-picked local ingredients, e.g. courgette flower stuffed with pike and a jus of Loire crayfish. The couple champions authentic, hand-crafted cuisine presented in a single set menu and served in a warm, homely vibe. The epitome of a French country restaurant.

This spot to the north of Nevers, once a roadside café, has been taken over by a pleasant young couple. The chef serves enjoyable traditional cuisine (roast monkfish, curry and lemongrass fumet, courgette and tomato tarte Tatin; chicken supreme, poultry liver and port stuffing), as well as a vegetarian set menu. In fine weather, make a beeline for the quiet terrace to the rear.

At his Table in the Hôtel du Morvan, chef Jérôme Raymond offers modern cooking based on regional produce. The set menu is inspired by the best of the season’s ingredients, with Charolais beef often a firm favourite. The 400-bin wine list concentrates, rightly so, on Burgundy. Comfortable rooms should you wish to stay longer.