Le Maryland

Jérôme Brochot rustles up market-fresh cuisine in the guise of his "côté cuisine" set menu, which changes on a weekly basis. On weekends, the spotlight is on the fine dining surprise set menu. They offer a cookery class on Sunday mornings.

The initiative by this pair, chef Willy Lardry and maître d' Edwin Smietanski, to open their restaurant here is most welcome. Both hail from Le Creusot but met while working for Yohann Chapuis in Tournus. The interior is inspired in part by nature (with, in particular, wallpaper depicting a forest in the mist). The chef, working alone in the kitchen, shows undeniable maturity. Delicacy and finesse are the order of the day, for example, the lovely courgette flower with cod stuffing and the olive oil sabayon accompanying the cod tournedos, or the mackerel and its marinated cucumber ravioli.