HERE.东京

Novel ideas meet time-honoured craftsmanship. The signature snack is cream croquette of tiger prawn, dressed in a reduction of shrimp miso. Deep-fried items are also offered, bringing a satisfaction rarely found at sushi shops. For its part, the sushi is prepared traditionally: brined, marinated or simmered. In part because of his language skills, the chef was tapped to cater a dinner meeting between the Japanese and American leaders.

‘Circular gastronomy’ from the chef of Mirazur in southern France. Prix fixe menus are composed from four themes—roots, leaves, flowers and fruits—expressing the beauty of nature and the cycle that happens in our world. The fare is modern French woven from Japanese ingredients, but it also beguiles with influences from the chef’s native Argentina, such as tapas and asado. Having stretched out his roots in southern France and budded leaves of creativity, the chef has blossomed in Otemachi.

Taking pride in domestic ingredients, the restaurant presents a distinctly Japanese approach to French cuisine. Dishes are light, with restrained use of fats and oils in line with modern tastes. Seasonal menus highlight fruits such as peaches and strawberries from local farmers, making the most of their natural character. Courses featuring sweetfish, chestnuts and mushrooms are also tempting. ‘La Paix’ means peace, expressing a wish for a harmonious table where producers and chef come together in mutual understanding through food.

Satoru Asahina pursues a gastronomy of ‘traditional heritage with modern innovation’. He delves into the history of French cuisine to reconstruct ancient recipes with his own interpretations. The prix fixe meal begins with a colourful amuse-bouche and proceeds to plates adorned with multi-layered culinary creations. Consommé pressed through a siphon with a flourish and desserts paraded on trolleys catch the eye. Classic cuisine tuned up to point to the future.

‘Harmony’ and ‘circulation’ are the keywords of this dining experience. Through his partnerships with farmers, the chef returns compost to revitalise the soil. The prix fixe presentation starts with a bowl of soup. Vegetable ends are used in the soup’s creation, expressing a wish for a society that doesn’t waste food. Prepared with French techniques, the fare is simple and light. The grey of the interior creates something of a laboratory feel.

The chef defends the traditions and skills of Edo-style sushi while showing creativity with some innovations of his own. Japanese halfbeak and horse mackerel are accented with ginger and mirin–soy reduction; simmered conger eel is served both salted and dipped in eel sauce for taste comparison. Nigiri is shaped using rice seasoned with red vinegar—a showcase of techniques cultivated over years of experience. Treading the path of the sushi chef was a dream in his teenage years. Steady devotion to craft is a lesson learned from sushi.

Thai culinary culture interpreted through Japanese ingredients. She moved to Bangkok and honed her culinary skills, now offer her cuisine prix fixe. Chopped mix of pomelo and seafood derives from the table of the royal court; rice vermicelli yakisoba is inspired by Bangkok street food. Curries are prepared with fresh-pressed coconut milk. Regional cuisines are reproduced using fermented or matured homemade seasonings. KHAO overflows with inquisitiveness and passion for Thai cuisine.