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The veteran owner-chef has devoted his life to tonkatsu pork cutlets. As he fries pork loin and fillet, he concentrates on the changing colour of the coatings and the hiss of oil in the copper pot. Cabbage is chopped by hand as the pork sizzles. Deft, precise movements calculated with the final result in mind reassure guests. Craftsmanship learned the old-fashioned way, through patient repetition of the master’s lessons, reflects a stance of uncompromising commitment.

One of the essential processes of wheat cultivation is treading the wheat. When the wheat plants bud, farmers tread them down so they grow up strong. The owner-chef named his shop Muginae, ‘wheat seedling’, as a prayer that it would grow as it overcame adversity, a hopeful shoot on the forest floor. Ramen, fragrant and homemade, has a smooth finish. Soup is seasoned with soy sauce, salt and dried sardines. Word has spread like wildfire, and now customers tread the streets of Minamioi from early morning for a cup of this restaurant’s delicious broth.

The generously portioned, inventive dishes reflect the chef’s desire to satisfy. The signature Taichi Salad is piled high with over 30 types of vegetable. Whether cut, grilled, steamed or fried, each dish is prepared to bring out the flavour of the ingredients. The seasonal specials listed on the blackboard are also inviting. In summer, fragrant roast corn with butter soy sauce is this restaurant’s speciality. Each season brings a reason to return.

The head chef at Sushidokoro Shishi has changed. Further comments will be updated following the completion of the inspection.

Two people known only as ‘Bamba-kun’ and ‘Bamba-chan’ offer an interlude of fun at this charming patisserie. To heighten the deliciousness of the prix fixe dessert menu, the sweets are preceded by a light, slightly salty meal of soup, salad and sandwiches. French dessert recipes are interpreted through fruits in season and Japanese ingredients. Baked sweets are misted with awamori, wreathing the creation in a sake aroma.

The name means ‘the abstract alchemist’. Alchemy combines the four traditional elements of fire, air, water and earth; the name expresses gratitude for the opportunity to cook with the bounty of nature. Ingredients arrive from food producers the chef trusts deeply: seafood from Uwajima, vegetables from Yachimata. Drawing on his experience in Emilia-Romagna, a region renowned for pasta, the chef flexes his gastronomic muscles with varieties such as tortelli and tagliolini.

日本料理