Au fil de l'eau

Pierre and Lydie reign over the revolving bridge in a swish, modern edifice whose glazed walls command a matchless view of the harbour. Where better to do justice to the catch from small boats, lobsters and shellfish from Cotentin, so beloved of the chef? The entirely meat-free menu focuses on surgically and delicately prepared seafood, sprinkled with creativity and the odd distinctive Japanese touch: squid and shiitake, mushroom and soy stock; compote of vanilla-laced apples, ice cream with unpasteurised cream and yuzu-spiked caramel.