东家赤坂酒店

The chef’s gastronomic experience includes stints in Sydney and New York. The creative flair he acquired along the way finds expression in the imaginative freedom of his menu. Appetiser of sea urchin and tuna is paired with caviar. Hassun platters incorporate unique choices such as spring rolls and roasted pork fillet. Broiled seafood and grills of eel and wagyu are accented by the aroma of bincho charcoal. The meal wraps up with handmade soba or rice in clay pots available on request.

The chef honed both his technical skills and also the spirit of the sushi craftsman at a long-established restaurant. A devotee of fish from Tokyo Bay, he regularly visits fishing ports, cultivating close ties with local fishermen that pay off in a supply of quality catch. Fish is meticulously prepared, whether cured in kombu or vinegar, or simmered. He pours his passion into Edo-style techniques, seasoning the sushi rice with red vinegar and salt. Tuna takes centre stage, while the nigiri begins with toro and concludes with tekkamaki.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

Sit down at the counter, and the calligraphy on the wall catches the eye. A gift from the chef’s mentor, it reads ‘Jikishin’, meaning ‘true heart’, a Zen exhortation to disengage from worldly attachments and maintain a pure spirit unsullied by petty distractions. The omakase set menu begins with items reflecting the chef’s experience with Kyoto cuisine, then proceeds to sushi. The beguiling texture of the sushi rice, which leaves a lingering sweetness, derives from a combination of rice from both this year’s and last year’s harvests. Sushi moulded with unwavering conviction and an honest heart

The look of the establishment is a ‘modern-day tearoom’, with concrete walls and glass-enclosed kitchen. The operation is run by the proprietor and the sommelier, both of whom have experience working in Japanese restaurants in Paris. From the proprietor’s native Tokushima come supplies of seafood, citrus fruits and rice. Another Tokushima influence is the use of Awa bancha, a fermented tea. Nogizaka Shin hosts tasting events every month, featuring discussions about pairings with wines and Japanese sake. The teamwork between chef and sommelier points to the future of kappo.

The chef grew up eating vegetables from the family garden in Yamagata and the restaurant is the fulfilment of a dream that one day he would serve cuisine made with vegetables grown by his parents. Deep-fried tofu leavened with those veggies brings the seasons of his hometown to the table. His affection for his ingredients inspired him to prepare kombu soy sauce for his sashimi, reusing the kombu from the soup stock. Akanezaka, the older name for Akasaka meaning ‘Red Hill’, conjures crimson associations of sunrise and sunset.

Black-and-white photos of the palace of Versailles adorn the walls; the palace symbolises the era when France was at the height of its splendour, and pays homage to the restaurant’s name, which means 'glory'. Paying respect to the development of French cuisine from the dishes favoured by the royal court, the chef adds a modern twist with his own hand, blending classic influences with contemporary elements. The pairings of international wines are another reflection of his modern sensibility.