日本青年馆酒店

The chef’s grandparents’ house once stood on this land. He harboured a lifelong dream of becoming a sushi artisan; the first knife he ever held was a gift from his grandfather. Never forgetting the spirit of the novice, the chef takes an honest, no-nonsense approach to his ingredients. “Letting the ingredients do the talking is not the same as doing nothing,” he says—and indeed, the chef devotes great time and effort to food preparation. As an apprentice, he learned from his mentor that cooking means thinking for yourself. The work of the old days inspires today’s creativity.

Narisawa celebrates the culture of Japan’s ‘satoyama’, rural hillscapes, through the genre of ‘innovative satoyama cuisine’. The Japanese islands form a long arc from north to south, and most of the land is satoyama. In this geographical backdrop from foothills to plains, people have found ways to live harmoniously and sustainably with nature. This image of the satoyama informs the imagination of Narisawa’s cuisine. The restaurant uses traditional craftworks such as lacquerware and washi paper, harmonising diverse people and culture.

In pursuit of new heights, the chef relocated to a new setting, riding the waves of change with his love for the sea, fish, and surfing. His appetisers showcase originality and creativity, with tuna sukiyaki as a prime example. For nigiri, however, he remains committed to orthodox techniques, crafting a menu with a carefully measured rhythm. The spotlight is on tuna, presented in a trio of lean, medium, and fatty cuts. Even the vinegared rice is finely tuned to complement the fish’s rich flavours.

‘Hakuun’ is a Zen term meaning ‘white cloud’, denoting a spirit of flowing leisurely along without worldly attachment. The name proclaims the restaurant’s flexible approach to Japanese cuisine. Fragrance and temperature are prized. Bonito is shaved and dashi drawn before guests’ eyes. Wanmono is served at the perfect moment, when harmony between broth and main ingredient reaches its fullest expression. Beef and game, char-grilled and straw-roasted, display originality and skill. Norms are observed while evolution is encouraged.

The omakase set menu begins with medium-fatty tuna, a single piece of sushi that epitomises the pride of the sushi artisan. It testifies to the passion with which he prepares his tuna, celebrates the strong bond of trust between him and his wholesaler, encapsulates his gratitude for human relationships and embodies the teachings of his mentor. Items such as kappamaki, a sushi roll stuffed with lashings of cucumber, and rolled omelette in hot dashi attest to character as well as skill. The bustle of the cooks’ activity behind the counter brings satisfaction to the soul as well as the belly.

With a name that reflects a desire to cherish ingredients, producers and the culinary craft of Chinese cuisine, ‘itsuka’ embodies a spirit of care and respect. Classic Chinese dishes are thoughtfully prepared using Japanese ingredients. The appetiser platter presents a medley from land and sea, enhanced with house-made doubanjiang and mala sauce to create a nuanced interplay of bold and delicate flavours. Sichuan cuisine is guided by the philosophy of ‘one dish, one character’ and ‘for a hundred dishes, a hundred flavours’, while Taiwanese cuisine is celebrated for drawing out the natural dept

To scale greater heights in the culinary world, Hideyuki Shibata moved his establishment to Minami-Aoyama. The shop’s name is an amalgam of marge, French for ‘margin’, ‘frame’ or ‘blank canvas’, and the English word ‘merge’. Within its margins, mærge offers a fusion of people, things and ideas from around the world. Prix fixe menus bring together two distinct styles, both honouring traditional, classic French fare and incorporating fresh, imaginative aspects. Inherited French techniques and a modern sensibility merge within this restaurant’s frame.