表参道客栈

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

‘Hakuun’ is a Zen term meaning ‘white cloud’, denoting a spirit of flowing leisurely along without worldly attachment. The name proclaims the restaurant’s flexible approach to Japanese cuisine. Fragrance and temperature are prized. Bonito is shaved and dashi drawn before guests’ eyes. Wanmono is served at the perfect moment, when harmony between broth and main ingredient reaches its fullest expression. Beef and game, char-grilled and straw-roasted, display originality and skill. Norms are observed while evolution is encouraged.

The framed motto reads, roughly, ‘Begin at the start, and when you get to the end, begin again with the spirit of the novice.’ Taking to heart this aphorism of tea master Sen no Rikyū, the chef toils at his craft with the sincerity of a beginner. He encountered this spirit in Kyoto, where he learned the art of chakaiseki. Rice is served the moment it is ready, so guests can observe the changes in it as the steam billows. Handmade sweets conclude the meal, following the etiquette of the wabicha style of the tea ceremony. Strong matcha also reflects the essence of the Way of Tea.

To scale greater heights in the culinary world, Hideyuki Shibata moved his establishment to Minami-Aoyama. The shop’s name is an amalgam of marge, French for ‘margin’, ‘frame’ or ‘blank canvas’, and the English word ‘merge’. Within its margins, mærge offers a fusion of people, things and ideas from around the world. Prix fixe menus bring together two distinct styles, both honouring traditional, classic French fare and incorporating fresh, imaginative aspects. Inherited French techniques and a modern sensibility merge within this restaurant’s frame.

The movements are those of one immersed in the world of nigiri. On the fingertips of the left hand balances a piece of fish; clutched in the right, a fistful of sushi rice; the tip of the forefinger applies wasabi. Pushing, occasionally pulling, and scoring in delicate strokes, the single-edged knife crafts hidden incisions to help flavour soak in and heat travel through. Gracefully flowing motion, fine-tuned through daily practice, is the simplicity that holds countless truths. The spirit of nigirizushi is in capable hands with Shintaro Suzuki.

Takuto Murota procures ingredients himself, hunting game in the mountains and growing vegetables in his home garden. Harmonious coexistence with nature is the theme of his cooking and nowhere is this conviction more evident than in his game dishes. Meat is grilled, bones and entrails made into sauces; nothing edible is wasted. Venison blood macarons have become emblematic of LATURE. Classic cuisine with a touch of modern sensibility conveys respect for life.

The team at Den welcomes guests with bright smiles and easy conversation. A playful, inventive menu brings a fresh perspective to Japanese cuisine. The omakase menu begins with monaka, a wafer sandwich filled with foie gras seasoned with miso, along with fruits and vegetables. Fried chicken wing tips are stuffed with iimushi, mochi rice steamed with seasonal toppings. The delight of his guests is what drives the chef. Original thinking gives rise to the sort of fun dining experience only Den can offer.