天津黄崖关长城家酒店

This flagship of the chain has an elegant but relaxed dining space done out in modern Chinese style. The menu is essentially the same as at other branches, focusing on Taizhou cooking and fish from the East China Sea. But the 28-day-old baby Peking duck, which you have to pre-order, is available exclusively at this location. Try also the duck stew with fish maw and taro – the taro is so starchy and tender that it melts in your mouth.

Upon arrival at this upmarket restaurant, diners step into a hallway lined with steeply priced dried fish maws. With years of experience in Hong Kong and Shanghai, Chef Cheung reimagines Chaozhou classics with sophistication and finesse. Braised fish maw with 30-year-aged dried radish is one of his proud creations – the lingering aromas of the radish lend the dish extra depth of flavour. Both the wine list and tea menu are packed with excellent choices.

Jingji specialises in royal cuisine that not only pays homage to the nation's culinary traditions, but also captures the essence of regional recipes. The two set menus served in the main dining room focus on dried seafood and vegetables. Try the firm-textured braised fish maw in a flavoursome broth. Those booking a private room can customise their menus. The name is a portmanteau of "Beijing" and "Yueji" – the official flower of the city.

The cosy, understated space is done out in neutral greys with pops of teal green. The Shanghainese head chef and predominantly Shanghainese kitchen team reinterpret the classics, adding modern twists. Check out the seasonal offerings made with Jiangzhe ingredients that are hard to come by in Beijing. Another highlight is their Shanghainese dim sum, such as xiao long bao and qingtuan (sweet sticky rice dumplings with Chinese mugwort).

A skylight in the pitched roof bathes the main room in natural light; the private rooms and balcony also feel cosy. An inquisitive soul by nature, veteran chef Dai spent time in Japan studying plant-based ingredients. His menu follows the seasons and may include his signature "porcini, green pepper, sea salt" with Yunnan mushrooms chargrilled to impart smoky aromas. The famous tofu is steeped in broth and intoxicating flavours.

The speciality here is Shandong cooking, especially Confucius cuisine, sea cucumber and live seafood shipped daily from Jiaodong peninsula. The chef is from Yantai and knows the food from his home province inside out. Try his roast 45-day-old duck served with caviar, prawn crackers and Shandong pancakes, which embodies features of both Beijing and Shandong cuisine. The lengthy tea menu and bespoke tea service make for a very special experience.

素食