中央酒店 Ueshio

Yugen means ‘mysterious profundity’, grace whose depths can never be plumbed. It connotes the depths of Japanese cuisine, a product of constant refinement through the ages. Keisuke Mifune puts on display the skills and instincts he honed at a ryotei. He pays attention to combinations of ingredients and dishware, expressing the changing of the seasons through his menu. A Fukuoka native, the chef furnishes the bounty of Kyushu in the form of seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Goto Islands.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.

The proprietor of this refined, modern sukiya-style structure displays a unique approach while honouring tradition. The wanmono broth draws in the sweetness of kombu and the sharpness of shaved bonito. Sashimi showcases the chef’s disciplined knife technique. Generous amounts of seasonal ingredients are grilled over bincho charcoal. Even the handmade soba imparts a sense of season. ‘Omogashi’, the main sweet served in the tea ceremony, and usucha draw the meal to a close. Service is in the spirit of the tea ceremony.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

The movements of the owner-chef’s fingers as he works are a marvel to watch. This deftness is apparent in his side dishes and sushi. His knife technique, informed by a deep understanding of the characteristics of each fish, raises the flavour to a new level. Sushi rice is changed frequently to maintain just the right temperature, that of the human body. Rice is gathered in the palm of the hand as if capturing air. Wasabi, applied with the index finger, is apportioned just right, as is the nikiri. Formed with practiced economy of movement, each nigiri is formed perfectly for true flavour.

Situated in a quiet residential district, Sushi Sanshin is only open at lunchtime. The naturally lit interior presents an austere charm. The chef is schooled in the old ways of sushi-making, but weaves in a few tricks of his own. For example, the simmered clam nigiri is carefully prepared with precise knife work and finished with a hint of yuzu. The tamagoyaki, placed on top of the rice like a horse's saddle, conceals a touch of oboro within. Norimaki made with herbs to evoke vegetable flavours is a speciality found only here. Pursuit of the new, tempered by respect for the classics.

Long experience at ristoranti scattered across Italy honed this chef’s culinary instincts, leading him to dishes that blend rustic charm with refinement. Confidence particularly shines in his pasta presentations. Bavettine of dried mullet roe and lime is a signature dish he has served for years. Arranged to mimic a mimosa flower in bloom, the presentation is delightful. Each item is simple yet distinctive.