MIMARU東京 八丁堀

A sign with a crane’s head in profile against the sun marks the modern Japanese exterior. Enter the dining room, and piped jazz music fills an interior decorated with Western paintings. Red and white keynotes in the décor denote the rising sun. Cuisine is ‘modern classic’, a theme born of the sensibility the chef cultivated overseas. The aim is to offer modulation in temperature, beguiling aromas, and a light, comfortable feeling after dining. Refined items of refreshing originality suggest the future of Japanese cuisine.

A man of few words, the chef fixes his attention on his grill. He focuses on every detail of yakitori—the state of the charcoal, how the skewers are assembled and grilled—pursuing the subtleties of a cuisine. His favoured type of chicken is game fowl, prized for its supple texture and rich flavour. It is seasoned with a salt base and modulated with added chicken fat or vinegar, then wreathed in smoke as it cooks on the grill. Skewers are interspersed with chicken-based snacks such as cold chicken breast and mincemeat potato salad. A procession of dishes of lively originality.

What matters most at Sushi Hashimoto is the presentation of the sushi toppings. Fish is cut in wide strips that wrap around the sushi rice. A delicate touch of refined nikiri is used sparingly, the better for the blended sushi rice to bring out the flavour of the fish. Gizzard shad stuffed with minced fish is inherited from the Edo style, while the straw-smoked Spanish mackerel dressed in mustard is an avant-garde expression. The counter was built by artisans to create a harmonious atmosphere; the chance to enjoy sushi casually is one reason for Sushi Hashimoto’s popularity.

In Kyoto, the chef acquired knowledge of Japanese cuisine; in his native Shiga, the uniqueness of fondly remembered country cooking. The sprouting of flowering plants, the spirit of wild animals, the shifting of the seasons in the rural hillscapes, all have their say in the menu. The vividly colourful hassun platters are lavish yet delicate. The intention in hot-pot cooking is to bring a party together through the magic of a single flavour. Gracious service, sparing no detail, is the true pleasure here.

A tempura eatery run by a father and his two sons. Supplied with fish in season and fresh vegetables, The chef expresses the turning of the seasons through his ingredients. Items are lightly battered and fried in cold-pressed sesame oil to bring forward the flavours of the tempura pieces. Two friers at different temperatures are used according to the needs of each dish; occasionally an item is double-fried, first in medium-hot oil, and then in hot oil. With the experience and skills of a craftsman honed over many years, the chef unerringly delivers the flavours of each season.

The themes here are richness and flavours. The flavour of kombu kelp is added to soup stock and other ingredients, creating culinary synergies. The chef’s approach is to focus on the foods of Japan and enhance their creativity. The cuisine weaves together the ‘three harmonies’: harmony with the changing of the seasons, harmony of flavours and gentleness of flavours. Presentation is colourful, flavours light. Traditional craftworks are used for serving vessels and cutlery, proclaiming the culture of Japan.

A restaurant under the supervision of Niko Romito, whose unique philosophy is blazing a trail through the Italian culinary world. From the concept of ‘authentic yet contemporary’, Il Ristorante - Niko Romito brings together fare from every region of Italy. Vegetable soup is prepared without water; instead, moisture is extracted from the ingredients, yielding a pure expression of flavour. Spaghetti pomodoro features concentrated essence of tomato. The pursuit of the flavours and essence of Italy.