上下文-Sora SORA - 假日住宿 78009v

Yugen means ‘mysterious profundity’, grace whose depths can never be plumbed. It connotes the depths of Japanese cuisine, a product of constant refinement through the ages. Keisuke Mifune puts on display the skills and instincts he honed at a ryotei. He pays attention to combinations of ingredients and dishware, expressing the changing of the seasons through his menu. A Fukuoka native, the chef furnishes the bounty of Kyushu in the form of seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Goto Islands.

The proprietor of this refined, modern sukiya-style structure displays a unique approach while honouring tradition. The wanmono broth draws in the sweetness of kombu and the sharpness of shaved bonito. Sashimi showcases the chef’s disciplined knife technique. Generous amounts of seasonal ingredients are grilled over bincho charcoal. Even the handmade soba imparts a sense of season. ‘Omogashi’, the main sweet served in the tea ceremony, and usucha draw the meal to a close. Service is in the spirit of the tea ceremony.

The movements of the owner-chef’s fingers as he works are a marvel to watch. This deftness is apparent in his side dishes and sushi. His knife technique, informed by a deep understanding of the characteristics of each fish, raises the flavour to a new level. Sushi rice is changed frequently to maintain just the right temperature, that of the human body. Rice is gathered in the palm of the hand as if capturing air. Wasabi, applied with the index finger, is apportioned just right, as is the nikiri. Formed with practiced economy of movement, each nigiri is formed perfectly for true flavour.

A rainbow-coloured awning marks Kamigata Rainbow, a shop that pursues individuality even in ramen. The type of noodle differs for each type of ramen, creating unity in each. Soy sauce is redolent with lashings of small, dried sardines. In the curry ramen, curry paste floating in the soup changes delightfully as it melts. The menu includes items limited to each season, tickling one’s curiosity.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.

The deliciousness of chicken works its magic in the soup. ‘Chuka Soba’ is ramen served in a refreshing clear soup; ‘Noko Tori Soba’ is ramen in rich, creamy chicken broth. If you can’t finish your soup, ask for it to be poured over rice with Tsuruhashi kimchi to make rice gruel. The ‘hidden menu’ on the reverse side of the menu catches one’s eye. Together, the front and back menus tell you ‘all about ramen’, which is what the shop’s name means. Savour a bowl from a proprietor who devotes himself whole-heartedly to the craft of ramen.

‘Good old traditions and colourful, fun Japanese cuisine’ is the credo of owner-chef Shigeru Terada. He works traditional festivals or events into each of his hassun, which he serves with a ready smile. The reason he chooses contemporary plates and bowls is so diners can experience a journey through the present with the artists. Fresh vegetables arrive from his parents in Mie Prefecture, the images on the coaster are painted by his mother, and his elder brother designed the interior.