常州大观酒店

This is the flagship of a local restaurant chain famous for traditional Changzhou cuisine cooked over clay wood stoves. The three-storey historic mansion was restored to retain its early 1900s charm and the friendly staff also dresses the part. Steamed before presented in a clay pot, the must-try bamboo grove chicken is prized for its juicy, tender meat. Sensible prices and a vintage vibe make it routinely packed with diners.

Near a dinosaur theme park, the interior is drenched in natural light amid lush greenery. On the menu, authentic Changzhou cooking takes centre stage. Must-tries include casserole of stewed fish head made with bighead carp from the nearby Tianmu Lake: the milky broth is loaded with umami, the fish is flaky and silky and the dish is theatrically unveiled at the table. Free-range chicken sautéed in camellia seed oil with basil seduces with heady aromas.

Since 1987, this simple noodle shop has had a special place in the hearts of Changzhouese because of their pork trotters, slow-cooked in a white marinade. The collagen-rich meat falls off the bone and the mild herbal warmth is nicely rounded. Order with noodle soup or with noodles tossed in sauce on the side. For the ultimate Changzhou experience, pair the trotters with noodles tossed in “red soup” that boasts sweet umami and a lovely chew. Expect to queue.

The rustic and cosy-feeling wood-rich interior is complemented by a courtyard that showcases the changing seasons. For her kitchen specialising in Changzhou fare, plus other regional favourites, the owner herself shops for the freshest produce every morning. Her hand-wrapped wontons filled with pork, crab roe and crabmeat burst with juices and sweetness. Larger parties can order "fairy chicken" casserole with gelatinous pork trotters.

The owner refurbished a three-storey historic villa to house South Garden. The retro furniture and Pingtan soundtrack instantly take diners back to the first half of the 20C. On the food side, Changzhou classics rub shoulders with a few Jiangzhe favourites. Try traditional Jiangsu crabmeat and crab roe paste – the intense umami is balanced by pepper and vinegar. For a sweet finale, try deep-fried meringue stuffed with caul fat and red bean.

Detan is a local F&B brand founded in 1908. It expanded into the hospitality sector in 2000s and the on-site restaurant naturally perpetuates the brand’s legacy, melding Jiangnan traditions and modern touches. The menu focuses on classic Changzhou recipes passed down for generations. Qianlong crab roe and crabmeat soup seduce with varied textures and deep umami. Red braised black carp tail in a sweet soy sauce boasts firm, flavoursome meat.

Popular with the locals, this rustic joint offers Changzhou’s all-time breakfast favourites, including bargain-priced tofu soup that boasts clear, flavourful broth and velvety duck blood curd. Their signature xiao long bao brims with crabmeat and crab roe; the soupy pork filling is umami-laden and fluffy. Dip it in aged vinegar to cut through the richness. It is always busy, so expect to share a table with strangers at mealtimes.