金床清迈

Soontaree Vechanont doesn’t just own “Soontaree’s House” – the singer also performs here nightly. Set on the Ping River in an open-air, Lanna-style building with more tables outside, this charming restaurant can accommodate up to 350 guests. Among the Northern Thai cooking they serve is their signature boneless murrel fish stuffed with pork. It’s a creative dish, with the well-seasoned sausage proving suitably fragrant and spicy.

Since 2004, Doctor Sai has been serving pan-Thai dishes, including royal fare, following recipes from her mother, Saiyud, a former cooking instructor, in a setting reminiscent of dining at home. Start with an elegant appetiser like fried prawns and peanuts in an egg net, flower dumplings, or deep-fried pork wrapped in egg noodles. By dessert – try the sweet potato in syrup – you’ll guess this home, with its warm service, belongs to a royal from a bygone era.

For decades, this spot has been drawing in loyal fans with its tue ka ko – crispy deep-fried taro with sweet chilli sauce and peanuts. Light, fresh and never greasy, each batch is made to order. The fried tofu is also worth trying. Open only until they sell out, so come early.

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

We-La-Dee brings central Thai cuisine north in an airy industrial-style dining room marked by playful accents. The restaurant’s large collection of action figures and a floor-to-ceiling installation of artificial flowers inspire photographs. Its extensive menu, which includes some original recipes from the chef, inspire both relaxed meals with family and friends and afternoons spent sipping coffee or tea and enjoying dessert.

A solid choice for no-fuss Northern Thai food, this laid-back restaurant serves rustic, traditional dishes in small sharing portions. Highlights include the well-balanced kaeng om and boldly flavoured lap nuea, available with pork, beef or fish – raw or cooked – all prepared in classic Northern style. In an open-air setting with a relaxed local vibe, the place fills up with Thai diners at peak times. Service is friendly, with staff often speaking Northern Thai.

Located opposite Wat Ket Karam, this humble gem of a shop specialises in khao kriap pak mo – steamed rice dumplings with a truly generous drizzle of fresh coconut milk – and neatly wrapped tapioca dumplings brimming with sweet and savoury pork and peanut.