东京君悦酒店

These days more and more guests are asking where the fish are caught. ‘If we could eat sushi where it’s caught, we wouldn’t need markets!’ retorts chef Takashi Ono. Discernment is a faculty built only slowly through long years of experience and knowledge. Along the way Ono has cultivated bonds of trust with seafood brokers, enabling him to source quality. The markets are the classic tale of ‘giri’ and ‘ninjo’, human connections forged in duty and loyalty. Sushi in purest form, stripped to its essence.

The Japanese love of small spaces is deeply connected with the spirit of the tea ceremony and its cultural background. The counter, affording just the right distance between guests and Chef Toshiya Kadowaki, seats just six. The private room, whose low ceiling suggests a tearoom, is so intimate that guests can feel each other’s breathing. The menu features dishes where ingredients in season come together to create fleeting sensations that linger in the memory forever. Truffle rice, enriching the meal in both aroma and flavour, is a case in point.

Red and black are the thematic colours of L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon. The classic Robuchon menu spins a tale like a 19th-century French novel. The menu ranges from famous specialities of years gone by to new arrangements incorporating seasonal Japanese ingredients. This really is ‘Joël Robuchon’s atelier’, where the genius honed his concept of French gastronomy.

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

The movements are those of one immersed in the world of nigiri. On the fingertips of the left hand balances a piece of fish; clutched in the right, a fistful of sushi rice; the tip of the forefinger applies wasabi. Pushing, occasionally pulling, and scoring in delicate strokes, the single-edged knife crafts hidden incisions to help flavour soak in and heat travel through. Gracefully flowing motion, fine-tuned through daily practice, is the simplicity that holds countless truths. The spirit of nigirizushi is in capable hands with Shintaro Suzuki.

Tempura craftsmanship handed down from the chef’s father. The essence of tempura is respected, with just a few unique, imaginative changes added. Omakase set menus display a distinctive flair, with shrimp taking the lead role. The first piece is deep-fried rare, to elicit sweetness. Shiitake mushroom stuffed with minced shrimp pairs the bounty of mountain and ocean for a beguiling texture. Another shrimp piece, with viscera concealed within, exudes a tempting fragrance. The meal concludes with kakiage, tempura of mixed seafood and veggies, with shrimp appearing once more to take a bow. Choose