鈴蘭天覺屋

The movements of the owner-chef’s fingers as he works are a marvel to watch. This deftness is apparent in his side dishes and sushi. His knife technique, informed by a deep understanding of the characteristics of each fish, raises the flavour to a new level. Sushi rice is changed frequently to maintain just the right temperature, that of the human body. Rice is gathered in the palm of the hand as if capturing air. Wasabi, applied with the index finger, is apportioned just right, as is the nikiri. Formed with practiced economy of movement, each nigiri is formed perfectly for true flavour.

The stately tea-house interior and Japanese-style painting of the spray from a waterfall enfold guests in an atmosphere of tranquillity. Proclaiming a no-nonsense approach to sushi, the two chefs restrict seasoning and other preparations to the bare minimum. They add no sugar to the sushi rice, the better to draw out the natural sweetness of fish and rice. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce only briefly; conger eel dressed in sauce that is only slightly sweet. As they form sushi by hand, both chefs focus on the basics of rice, wasabi, vinegar and fish.

The proprietor of this refined, modern sukiya-style structure displays a unique approach while honouring tradition. The wanmono broth draws in the sweetness of kombu and the sharpness of shaved bonito. Sashimi showcases the chef’s disciplined knife technique. Generous amounts of seasonal ingredients are grilled over bincho charcoal. Even the handmade soba imparts a sense of season. ‘Omogashi’, the main sweet served in the tea ceremony, and usucha draw the meal to a close. Service is in the spirit of the tea ceremony.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

Yugen means ‘mysterious profundity’, grace whose depths can never be plumbed. It connotes the depths of Japanese cuisine, a product of constant refinement through the ages. Keisuke Mifune puts on display the skills and instincts he honed at a ryotei. He pays attention to combinations of ingredients and dishware, expressing the changing of the seasons through his menu. A Fukuoka native, the chef furnishes the bounty of Kyushu in the form of seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Goto Islands.

Tempura Kozaki expresses the seasons through ten pieces of tempura. The procession begins with tiger prawn, then alternates between vegetables and seafood. Experience in other disciplines of Japanese cuisine shines in the choice of ingredients such as deboned pike conger and Japanese mugwort gluten cake. Pieces are lightly deep-fried in cottonseed oil and served with warm tentsuyu. Frequent changes of coating show the skill of the seasoned veteran. This popular restaurant is full night after night; for the first Sunday of each month, reservations are accepted two months in advance.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.