S·dor 酒店 杭州萧山机场

(The restaurant is temporarily closed.) This tiny shop specialising in Xiaoshan cooking has no paper menu – you pick from the fish tank and various dishes on display. Steaming is a key characteristic of Xiaoshan cuisine and, here, river fish, meat and vegetables are steamed with ham and cured pork, yellow wine, or chicken fat and soy sauce to bring out their natural flavours. Three-year-old duck is steamed with ham for intense umami. The pork stuffed omelette roll is another must-try.

Diners are greeted by rows of live fish tanks at the entrance and various ingredients on display. A Xiaoshan native, the hands-on owner has been running this business for almost 20 years. You can ask him to recommend the catch of the day alongside other authentic Xiaoshan items made à la minute. Fish balls are one of his specialities but aren't available every day. The steamed buns made from scratch are the epitome of meticulous craftsmanship.

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

The dimly lit space on two levels feels modern and chic, with its mix of bare concrete, glass, and metal structures. The food, meanwhile, is very much in keeping with Fujian tradition. Seafood from the province features heavily on the menu, alongside other Fujian produce. Signatures include honey-glazed grilled river eel with crispy skin and oily, velvety flesh. The raw oysters from Xiamen Harbour dressed in speciality sauce are zesty and summery.

The high-ceilinged room is lavishly furnished with elegant chandeliers, ceiling fans and elaborate trims. The kitchen team excels in fusion Chinese cooking that creatively mixes and matches influences and techniques from various regional cuisines. Thinly sliced air-dried mackerel steeped in a special briny-sweet sauce is loaded with umami. The slow-cooked veal in a truffle sauce literally melts in your mouth. The curated tea list is intriguing!

The room sports cultural motifs from the Chaoshan region, including a miniature replica of Guangji Bridge, an icon of Chaozhou. Walk-in diners will be seated in the main dining room and served an à la carte menu. Private rooms must be booked in advance, with a tailored menu. The signature marinated “gelato” raw mud crab boasts creamy roe that melts in the mouth. Also try the double-boiled silkie chicken soup with deer tendon and ginseng.