都城城市东京高轮

The chef, once dedicated solely to Cantonese cuisine, expanded his repertoire as he honed his craft in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Prix fixe menus incorporate traditions from regions across China, using ingredients selected from a broad purview. The chef focuses not only on seasoning but also on the natural flavours of the ingredients; dried abalone simmered in water alone testifies to his conviction. After dinner the chef serves Chinese tea, conveying gratitude to guests as he converses with them.

The name combines two of the four characters of Haruhiko Yamamoto’s name. The chef’s approach to cuisine and commitment to entertaining guests were both learned from his mentor in Gifu. He is also enthusiastic about guiding the next generation, as shown by the smiles and positive attitude of his young crew. Yamamoto may surprise with innovative dishes, but with wansashi—the pairing of sashimi and soup, considered the essence of Japanese cuisine—he stays true to tradition. Each item is the product of painstaking effort the customer never sees.

Tomoya Kawada sees cooking as a reconciliation between nature and humanity. He names his approach Sazenka, which literally means ‘tea-Zen-Chinese’, out of a desire to create Chinese fare that mediates between the worlds of tea and Zen. His cuisine harmoniously combines the techniques he learned in China with the soul and spiritual features of Japan – ‘wakon-kansai’ is the theme. Japanese ingredients in season are used in spring-roll fillings and Sichuan stir-fries, lending a seasonal dimension to Chinese cuisine.

The chef has devoted his life to the path of the tempura craftsman. He watches his pot in silence, focusing on the sound of the oil. Frying his tempura on high heat, he teases out moisture to concentrate the flavour. Creative flourishes are avoided, letting the deliciousness of ingredients in season speak for itself. Batter thickness and flame heat are continually adjusted to produce a light and airy tempura. A traditional Japanese tea-house carpenter created the interior, transforming it into a graceful space.

The pet theory here is that French cuisine does not add but multiplies: dishes are the product, not the sum, of their ingredients. The speciality is an espuma of sea urchin and Jerusalem artichoke, which is replaced with onion during summer. Food from sea and mountain mix, aiming at just the right temperature to melt in the mouth. To ensure consistency, vegetables are harvested from the chef’s own garden. Financier, served after the meal, offers a wry nod to the restaurant’s name, with a play on both the pastry and the financier as one who benefits from gold, echoing the alchemist’s quest to t

Seafood largely comes from the Amakusa islands off Kyushu’s west coast, because that’s where the chef is from. For the same reason, salt, soy sauce and local sake are sourced from Kumamoto. The providence of sea and land are all used in natural ways. To ensure compatibility between rice and topping, rice is matched with red or rice vinegar as appropriate. Depending on its nature, rice from different regions may be cooked separately, then combined and vinegared. Strictly speaking, this reminds us that sushi is simply a way of eating rice.

The chef was a fishmonger before pursuing the path of the sushi artisan. Every sushi piece he forms is an expression of gratitude to the fishermen and wholesalers. The meal begins with hand-delivered negitoromaki (roll sushi of tuna and green onions). Pairing rolls of monkfish liver and kanpyo (dried gourd) with sweet, thick kijoshu is inspired by how foie gras matches so well with botrytised wine. The omakase set menu is wonderfully satisfying with its generous selection of items. Add to all this the three requisites of good service: awareness, attentiveness and smiles. No wonder reservations