Roulotte Zelena Hora

Luck has nothing to do with the current reputation of this downtown venue, facing Jean Jaurès Fountain, as the darling of the town’s discerning epicureans. The stripped-back interior sports a distinctly Scandinavian feel, which given the chef’s Swedish origins is hardly a surprise. On the culinary front, he deploys his undisputed talent, adding a new twist to French classics and conjuring up enticing recipes in tune with the era: generous portions, well crafted and oozing with flavour. The intelligent wine list and crack table staff, as professional as they are friendly, add the final flourish

This is an original Taverne with its contemporary, elegant, light - filled decor – and a terrace giving onto the countryside. Enjoy the enticing food, blending good local ingredients and original touches. You can also stay the night in one of the cleverly designed guestrooms.

In the heart of the old town, this handsome Art Deco building is home to a contemporary-style brasserie with an attractive glazed roof and an imposing Murano chandelier – a pleasant setting in which to peruse a menu packed with enticing options. Using local produce, the chef puts his own spin on the classics: seared salmon gravlax served with a mushroom salad; a fine cut of Tarn pork; a new version of tarte Tatin with Granny Smith opaline. Pure alchemy!

The premium location at the foot of Pont Vieux, overlooking the historic town and cathedral, is eminently Instagram worthy. The savvily revamped dinky bistro is run by a former art historian, whose healthy, colourful, well-crafted dishes hit the spot. This unorthodox, fine food DJ mixes South American, Italian and Comorian influences, with a scattering of lacto-fermented ingredients and a preference for organic sources. First-class organic and natural wines.

Already chef at Vigne en Foule in Gaillac, Julien Bourdariès has opened a new place in a delightful brick and half-timbered house on the emblematic Place des Arcades in this medieval village. For lunch, the lively Auberge (open from morning to evening) proposes an amazing set menu at a bargain price, a choice of starters for sharing (charcuterie from the Tarn, pig's trotter croquettes etc) and dishes such as duck confit or veal fillet cooked in the open fire oven. Savvy selection of regional wines.

In this pretty village known for its pink garlic, an old stone building plays host to two dining rooms, a patio and a lounge with a wood fire crackling in a cast-iron stove. The hardwood floors, exposed stone walls and timber ceilings foster a cosy atmosphere. In the kitchen, Lydia Darasse and Thomas Massoutier serve up modern dishes, centred on fresh produce, sourced both locally and further afield: battered and fried soft-boiled egg, parsnip purée, button mushrooms and meurette sauce; seared scallops, saffron orzo risotto, lobster bisque and bottarga.