台南小夜曲

This place that started out as a corner stall some 30 years ago is now a fully-fledged joint with a bright, clean room… but the friendly service and bustling ambience haven't changed! Freshly slaughtered milkfish is the main draw – as a soup slow cooked with milkfish bone and head for natural sweetness, or fried milkfish belly with crispy skin and tender flesh. Rife with rustic aromas, the garlic rice drizzled with lard is the breakfast of choice for many.

A Hsing has been serving Tainan-style milkfish congee since 1965, attracting a queue as early as 5am every morning. You can specify the cut you want; the belly is the most prized part of the fish, boasting fatty, silky flesh. The congee base is flavoursome; fried garlic pieces on top add extra aroma. Feel free to order milkfish belly dressed in soy sauce as well. Unlike most simple shops in Tainan, air-conditioned seating is available inside.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.

Splitting from Fu Sheng Hao, a household name in the realm of Taiwanese savoury rice pudding known as wagui, the owner started Yi Wei Pin in 2013 to amplify his grandpa’s culinary legacy. Much darker in colour than its Taipei counterparts, the wagui is made with local rice milk, freshly slaughtered pork, velvet shrimps and house-braised ground pork sauce. Try it with washabi or minced garlic also. Their milkfish thick soup is also popular.

Over 70 years ago, a stall opened by a small park and the owner would sit on a tiny stool to blanch the noodles, to be tossed in pork sauce or served in soup. Nowadays, the park no longer exists, but the owner still sits on a stool like the old days. Soup noodles are recommended – silky, al dente thin egg noodles in a flavoursome broth, topped with velvet shrimps and braised minced pork. Do order sides or braised dishes on top.

After five decades of business in Guohua Street Market, the lamb soup stall shut its doors in 2013. Regulars lamented the loss but the owner’s nephew quit his job in Taipei to re-open the shop here. The famous soup made with freshly slaughtered local lamb meat and bones is the must-try item, but do order other lamb cuts and offal blanched in the soup and dressed in sesame oil. Come early – everything is sold out before 11 am.

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.