屋子 Wuz Marutamachi

The owner and chef are a picture of brisk motion behind the counter. Offerings range from simple fare to more elaborate dishes, so everyone can choose something they fancy. Soups of ground vegetables and fruit mark each season. Potato salad is served Mirei-style: adding cucumber pickled in rice bran. Nama-fu (a steamed mixture of wheat gluten and rice flour) baked with blue cheese shows the house’s playful side. When a single dish is prepared, the owner asks if we’d like him to split it for us—a considerate touch.

Alexis Moko polished his skills in Paris and London before decamping to Kyoto. Encountering an old merchant’s house that had once served as a dietary school, he opened a restaurant where he could express his knowledge of French cuisine through Japanese ingredients. Moko makes the most of the freshness of vegetables from nearby Ohara while ageing fish and meat in a curing warehouse to amplify umami. Dishes inspired by classic cuisine are dressed generously in sauces to create a light, refreshing touch.

The chef brings out the best in seasonal ingredients to conjure simple, tasty fare. Early morning market visits, part of his daily routine, furnish the ingredients that inspire ideas for his kitchen. Pasta of sweetfish and crab, simmered in their own broth, express the candid flavours of the season. Wines that bring out the flavours of each dish are part of the appeal of Vena. Ask the sommelier about the house’s range of finely aged wines.

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

The chef experienced the profundity of local cooking in Italy and learned about fermented cuisine in Switzerland. In Kyoto, he happened upon the charm of Ohara’s agricultural produce. He then set about creating cuisine as only this terroir could make possible, accented by the sourness and bitterness of fermented vegetables. ‘Bini’ is named after his Italian mentor—his dearly-missed father figure in Italy. The name expresses gratitude for teaching him the joy of cooking and guiding his early career.

The chef is an earnest devotee of everything that makes a restaurant great, thanks to careful study of ingredients, culinary technique and attention to every customer. Recipes are tested over and over to get the flavour just right. Knowing that the taste of dashi soup stock changes over time, the chef patiently rests his stock to draw out the flavour. While known to refer to traditional methods, alternations between new and old are a signature of Nakamitsu’s menus.

As a ryotei cook, the chef learned never to forget the basics of Kyoto cuisine. In a mark of respect, the meal begins with a cup of sake. The chef expresses his commitment to gracious service through the passion he devotes to his cooking. Tilefish sashimi is lightly salted, enhancing flavour. Instead of simmered vegetables, hot-pot cooking is offered. Prizing engagement with his guests, the chef works his magic right before their eyes. The surest sign of a sincere craftsman is earnest devotion to his craft.