客栈 Koiya

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

The chef prizes ‘combinations of flavours and aromas’. His mentor in Paris, Christian Le Squer, taught him to seek out new flavours by developing the sensibility of a perfumer. Experience and ideas come together in the ‘Warm Salad’. Vegetables picked in the Takagamine district of Kyoto’s Kita Ward are cooked in a variety of ways, drawing the flavour of each to the fore. Interplay of aromas between char-grilled meat dishes and their sauces express this fare’s unique character.

Tempura kaiseki, inherited from the chef’s grandfather. Japanese cuisine expresses the turning of the seasons. Tempura is fried one item at a time in canola oil, with a thin, lightly seasoned coating. Dipping sauce is served warm; tofu in a deep-fried style preserves the grandfather’s methods. Dressing tempura items in chopped onions and mustard is the Tenjaku style. Feeling that the afternotes should be light, the meal ends with white rice cooked in clay pots.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

Next to Shimogamo Shrine, surrounded by the Tadasu-no-Mori forest, lies Kyokaiseki Kichisen. The chef, a devotee of Japanese cuisine and the performing arts, built a ryotei on this spot. Respectful of Kyoto traditions, menu items are accompanied by charming details. Lids of soup dishes are emblazoned with dew, expressing freshness. Tuna sashimi is arrayed like a sea of clouds, creating a fairytale-like scene. Serving dishes of Kyoyaki ceramics, garnished with fresh-cut flowers, beguile the eyes. A unique interpretation of Kyoto kaiseki, accompanied by the spirit of graceful service.

A soba shop in a row of old houses on Kuramaguchi-dori. Pass through the noren curtain and the earth-floor entrance, and the nostalgic sight of tatami seating and tables on wooden floors puts you immediately at ease. ‘Zaru soba’, soba on a bamboo draining basket with dipping sauce, is made from 100% buckwheat flour for aroma and quality finish. A sharkskin grater and stick of wasabi are provided, so you can start grating your wasabi while you wait for your soba. Enjoy soba dishes to your heart’s content, including buckwheat tofu and buckwheat red-bean soup.

The name means ‘five’, referring to the five colours of the buckwheat plant, from its root, stalk, flowers, seeds and leaves. It also pays tribute to the five elements of the natural world, with Daitoku-ji Temple a few steps away. Omakase of soba and other dishes is replete with seasonal flavours, revealing the chef’s mastery of Japanese culinary arts. Aesthetic sense is outstanding, as befits a soba house of the Wakuden family. Soba is served plain or with spicy daikon. Dishes such as aemono or sabazushi may be added à la carte.