Au Vieux Tilleul

Settle at your table in this bright, modern interior and experience the talent of Thierry Chouin. This Breton chef may have a particular penchant for fish - based fare, but that doesn't mean he snubs lamb and potatoes. He fetes the ingredients with nicely turned - out dishes, each a lovely homage to tradition.

A fortified house during the Middle Ages, and a convent up until 1905, this "chalet" is now a hotel-restaurant run by the Prayer family, for whom tradition and generosity are the answer to everything. Their big-boned, wholehearted score reads like a vintage cookbook: hare pâté, fillet of trout and crayfish and Dauphiné ravioles, or a melt-in-the-mouth chocolate and vanilla ice cream extravaganza. Cosy rooms for overnight stays.