东京麻布奥克伍德酒店公寓

A detached, glass-walled house stands across from a park; ascend the stairs adjacent to the kitchen and you reach a dining room with a Scandinavian interior. The prix fixe menu begins with tea in season. The restaurant’s name refers to ‘friends who will drink tea together always’, referring to the circle of guests, staff and food producers. The chef’s aim is to serve food that is simple yet original. Both service and kitchen staff bring the food to your table.

A cypress counter in a room with adze-hewn ceilings and clay walls – an austere décor by which the proprietor sets the tone. ‘Simple fare’, says the menu, whose offerings avoid shows of splendour in favour of honest presentation. Sense of season flows entirely from the taste and aroma of the food. Sashimi wrapped in kombu, for example, or wanmono prepared with clear soup. Results are all the more impressive for the effort paid where few will notice. Natural flavours to calm the soul.

This restaurant is temporarily closed and plans to relocate around the end of July. The prix fixe menu is joyously imaginative and well balanced. An impressive range of beef cuts are served, each with its own method of preparation for most delicious effect. Seared rump locks in the flavour, slow-grilled tail is fragrant. Chateaubriand is reimagined as a cutlet sandwich; sirloin, served shabu-shabu style, is shorn of unnecessary fat; fillet is grilled over charcoal to a rosy red.

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.

A fixture of Higashiazabu for a quarter of a century, Chugoku Hanten Fureika is an evangelist for the traditional cuisine of China, with the focus on Shanghai and Cantonese cuisine. The menu dazzles the eye with over 100 à la carte items, including roasted Jinhua pork fillet, grouper steamed whole and soup of shàngtāng premium soup stock. The wide selection includes cuisine from every region of China, all prepared with seasonal ingredients. Sharing single items as a group is a special pleasure of Chinese cuisine.

A menu redolent with seasonal aromas and the kind hospitality of the couple in charge are the true charms of Azabujuban Fukuda. Katsuo-bushi (dried bonito flakes) is shredded, dashi drawn and seafood chopped in front of customers. Kazuto Fukuda uses ingredients from every corner of Japan. In spring, hatsu gatsuo (first bonito of the season) is grilled wrapped in straw. Unagi is smothered in mizansho (green peppercorn). Seasonal clay-pot rice dishes bring the meal to a close.

The spirit of the tempura artisan lies in treading the well-worn path of tradition while enlivening it with unique interpretations. Service begins with light-flavoured fish and grows steadily stronger in taste through vegetables to shrimp. The umami of roasted sesame oil enhances lighter-flavoured pieces; stronger-flavoured items are lightly fried in cold-pressed sesame oil. The meal wraps up with an inventive flourish to heighten enjoyment of the season, such as ‘temcha’, a bowl of rice topped with clam tempura steeped in tea, which may be served in spring, or ‘tembara’, shredded tempura of s