La Pers v Rance 12

Built in the 1860s, this imposing building near the Swiss border has accommodated a hotel for over 160 years. It has since been nicely refurbished, while retaining its name. A young local chef cooks up appetising dishes that pay homage to the terroir: courgette tartare, soft-boiled egg, faisselle mousse; pork, polenta, Alpine harissa. At lunchtime, there is a simpler set menu. The pleasant terrace affords a view of the mountains.