玛罗德旅馆赤坂

The chef honed both his technical skills and also the spirit of the sushi craftsman at a long-established restaurant. A devotee of fish from Tokyo Bay, he regularly visits fishing ports, cultivating close ties with local fishermen that pay off in a supply of quality catch. Fish is meticulously prepared, whether cured in kombu or vinegar, or simmered. He pours his passion into Edo-style techniques, seasoning the sushi rice with red vinegar and salt. Tuna takes centre stage, while the nigiri begins with toro and concludes with tekkamaki.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

Sit down at the counter, and the calligraphy on the wall catches the eye. A gift from the chef’s mentor, it reads ‘Jikishin’, meaning ‘true heart’, a Zen exhortation to disengage from worldly attachments and maintain a pure spirit unsullied by petty distractions. The omakase set menu begins with items reflecting the chef’s experience with Kyoto cuisine, then proceeds to sushi. The beguiling texture of the sushi rice, which leaves a lingering sweetness, derives from a combination of rice from both this year’s and last year’s harvests. Sushi moulded with unwavering conviction and an honest heart

The chef’s gastronomic experience includes stints in Sydney and New York. The creative flair he acquired along the way finds expression in the imaginative freedom of his menu. Appetiser of sea urchin and tuna is paired with caviar. Hassun platters incorporate unique choices such as spring rolls and roasted pork fillet. Broiled seafood and grills of eel and wagyu are accented by the aroma of bincho charcoal. The meal wraps up with handmade soba or rice in clay pots available on request.

The look of the establishment is a ‘modern-day tearoom’, with concrete walls and glass-enclosed kitchen. The operation is run by the proprietor and the sommelier, both of whom have experience working in Japanese restaurants in Paris. From the proprietor’s native Tokushima come supplies of seafood, citrus fruits and rice. Another Tokushima influence is the use of Awa bancha, a fermented tea. Nogizaka Shin hosts tasting events every month, featuring discussions about pairings with wines and Japanese sake. The teamwork between chef and sommelier points to the future of kappo.

‘Héritage by Kei Kobayashi’ is not just a name: The chef has made it his mission to honour and give thanks to the French culinary culture and pass it on to future generations through his eponymous restaurant. Venerable standards such as pâté en croûte, roast dovelet and vacherin are prepared in the traditional way but given a modern arrangement. Homage to the classics and the hospitality of the hotel combine to open new horizons in gastronomy.

Hidetoshi Nakamura’s cuisine embodies harmony, subtlety, and purity. With minimal seasoning, he captures each ingredient’s subtle trace in water— using only water and sea salt. Mountain and sea are intimately linked through water. Nakamura reminds us that we are a part of the magnificent connection between Nature and her laws. This elegant aesthetic, of beauty through simplicity, exudes modesty, returning us to a spirit of gratitude for the natural world.