新世纪大厦度假村 杭州香湖包宜

Diners are greeted by rows of live fish tanks at the entrance and various ingredients on display. A Xiaoshan native, the hands-on owner has been running this business for almost 20 years. You can ask him to recommend the catch of the day alongside other authentic Xiaoshan items made à la minute. Fish balls are one of his specialities but aren't available every day. The steamed buns made from scratch are the epitome of meticulous craftsmanship.

Every table in the softly lit room commands a view of the open kitchen. The head chef hailing from Taizhou designed the set and à la carte menus to highlight the natural flavours of the best seafood shipped from his hometown. Besides the famous yellow croaker braised in fish stock, also try the fried crab in curry sa cha sauce over pan-fried rice cake in autumn. The extensive wine list covers thousands of labels, mostly from Burgundy in France.

Getting to L’éclat 19, which nestles in a wooded valley on the southern shore of West Lake, is an experience in its own right. Open for dinner only, it offers two tasting menus that keep pace with the seasons, both signed by chef Olivier Elzer. Gallic classics are given refined Chinese twists – the bread is served with butter infused with Chinese Moutai liquor. The top-notch ingredients are sourced globally, while creative sauces deliver layered flavours.

(The restaurant is temporarily closed.) This tiny shop specialising in Xiaoshan cooking has no paper menu – you pick from the fish tank and various dishes on display. Steaming is a key characteristic of Xiaoshan cuisine and, here, river fish, meat and vegetables are steamed with ham and cured pork, yellow wine, or chicken fat and soy sauce to bring out their natural flavours. Three-year-old duck is steamed with ham for intense umami. The pork stuffed omelette roll is another must-try.

Serenity is the word that comes to mind to describe this restaurant deep in a bamboo forest. The kitchen delves into the unique flavours and terroir that set Zhejiang province apart, striking a balance between tradition and creativity. The seasonal menu changes monthly to showcase premium local produce. Mrs Song’s fish stew uses delicate, sweet yellow croakers. Finish your meal with a flourish of candied lotus root stuffed with sticky rice.

This no-frills shop is relatively inconspicuous, so, you may well walk right past it without noticing. But those in the know flock here for authentic Xiaoshan cuisine made with the freshest seasonal produce. There is no menu – pick your own food from the counter or ask the owner for recommendations. The must-try steamed miiuy croaker is silky in texture and loaded with umami. Poached free-range chicken and steamed veggies also hit the spot every time.

The sleek, elegant room stands in an osmanthus forest, the sweet scent of which lingers in the air in autumn. Once you set foot inside, the earthy smell of black tea takes over – tea-smoked dishes such as crispy skin chicken exude intoxicating aromas. The menu is dominated by Zhejiang classics made with seasonal ingredients from across the country. Try the river fish cooked with dried bamboo shoot, too. The tea ceremony at each table is quite a spectacle.