京都祇园酒店

The name ‘Roan’ derives from a Zen expression meaning ‘clear and unambiguous, hiding nothing’. To ensure the complete transparency of his work at Kikunoi, Yoshiharu Murata does all his food preparation in front of guests, at the counter. The opportunity to take in the dynamic activity in the kitchen while dining sets Roan apart from the flagship restaurant, a ryotei. Chatting with chefs as you enjoy dishes fresh from the kitchen is one of the pleasures of the kappo.

As an apprentice, while honing his skills in simmering and cooking, the chef discovered a love for grilling. The delicious taste of char-grilled boar impressed him and sparked his curiosity. Placing his grill at the centre of his kitchen, he hung out his shingle as a char-grill kappo. The bounty of mountain and ocean are roasted and slipped into the soup and dressed vegetables. Guests can choose between grilled fish or beef; game is also available in winter. Artful manipulation of the flame wreathes each item in the aroma of charcoal smoke.

Flowers are arranged, the ceremonial space is well appointed, serving vessels are carefully chosen. The tea ceremony spirit pervades Gion Maruyama’s graceful service. The Gion location is a ryotei but, in a modern touch, it also features counter seating. The chef has spent many years seeking out delicious flavours. He spells ‘oishii’ (good-tasting) the old-fashioned way, with the characters that mean ‘beautiful’ and ‘taste’, recalling the sensibilities of an older time. ‘Flavour, not seasoning’ is the chef’s credo. Devotion to Kyoto cuisine that reverberates in all senses.

The chef has made himself a master of old-school Japanese cuisine to take it to the next level. While respecting orthodoxy in wanmono and side dishes, he refers to French flameworking techniques for his grilled items and snacks. Masu salmon is served mi-cuit; beef is rested multiple times during grilling. The sukiya-style interior in a remodelled wooden townhouse is appointed with both antique and modern dishware. ‘Ryosho’ means ‘aspire to the heavens,’ and the sky’s the limit for the chef’s ambition and desire to better himself.

Behind a counter oozing Showa-era ambience, the chef plies his trade in his white smock and wooden clogs. As the second-generation chef of Kappo Hassun, he cherishes the history of Kyoto cuisine, populating his menu with dishes inherited from his father and foods associated with seasonal celebrations. Examples include assortments of sweet, steamed and layered egg cakes and burdock-root rolls, deep-fried tofu with thinly sliced veggies held together with hamo meat, and seasoned grilled fish. Gaining ideas from recipes he finds in literature, he brings old-style work to a new generation.

The menu alternates between omakase set menus and à la carte options. The evening begins with a procession of seasonal dishes, accompanied by wagyu stew rather than soup. Choose additional items from the menu or ask for a presentation of the ingredients of the day. White rice and miso soup wrap up the meal. We recommend the deliciousness of freshly cooked rice with accompaniments such as fried fish, fried chicken or braised pork.

Contemporary French cuisine that welcomes influences from other culinary cultures. The chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, proclaims to the world a borderless cuisine born of his experience living in Asia. Recipes come straight from the flagship restaurant in New York. Spices and herbs accentuate the aroma; the tartness of citrus brings a light note. In the warmer months when the terrace is open, the tables beside the Shirakawa River, with their views of Kyoto scenery, fill up fast.