SAIZEN 松室居所

Standing on the grounds of Tenryuji Temple, a World Heritage site, the restaurant presents the vegetarian diet that is part of Buddhist training. Arranging cuisine on vermilion-lacquered plates reflects Zen convention. Every dish is nourishing, from sesame tofu and deep-fried tofu mixed with vegetable slices to dressed vegetables. To live is to eat, to give thanks to life, to cherish the moment. The Zen spirit of harmony with nature breathes within these walls.

A procession of dishes that linger in the diner’s memory. Seasonal flavours are used in generous measure, such as Japanese pepper flower, pike conger, matsutake mushrooms and crab. Preparation methods, whether that be grilling, boiling or more, are astutely tailored to each ingredient, showcasing its qualities from every angle. This talent for bringing out the best in food is born of long years of experience. A favourite haunt of the literati, the Uozuya sign calligraphy is by essayist Masako Shirasu.

‘Fujitora’ is a blend of the chef’s name and that of the shop where he apprenticed, created to bring luck. It was his mentor’s ramen that inspired him to embark on his current path. The techniques he cultivated and his inquisitive mind shine in his chicken-and-pork soup. The chef prepares this soup in a large stockpot in the kitchen, patiently teasing every drop of umami from the ingredients. Sauce for soy-sauce ramen is created from a medley of soy sauces to harmonise with the soup.

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.

The chef has been researching the deliciousness of ramen since he was a schoolboy. In search of a unique flavour, he made ‘Scallop and Japanese Pepper Ramen’ his signature dish. Soup of dashi drawn from chicken, pork and seafood is multilayered and satisfying. The finished Japanese pepper oil imparts a refreshing feeling, and the generous topping of scallop is pure luxury. A carefully calibrated bowl of goodness that is the gift of repeated independent study.

‘Wavie’ (pronounced ‘wah-vee’) is an invented word combining Japanese ‘wa’, ‘harmony’, with French ‘vie’, ‘life’; it expresses the concept of French cuisine brought to new life through Japanese ingredients. The prix fixe menu is squarely focused on the ingredients of Kyoto and its environs. Vegetables fermented in herbs add depth and character to the flavours. Arrangements are modern in style. With sauces based on wine and cream, wavie fuses Japanese and French influences to create a culture of culinary harmony.

The name refers to a type of conical hat worn by monks in training. The restaurant is adjacent to Myoshinji, the head temple of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, where its founder learned the forms and spirit of shojin-ryori. Dishes are served on vermilion-lacquered serving-ware, a convention of Zen Buddhism, and arranged for colourful, eye-catching presentation. Udon, prepared with soy flour added, is a signature dish. Fresh soybean curds are a delicacy of the house. Vegetarian cuisine handed down from classical times that soothes the soul.