盐的味道

A few kilometres into the first hills of the Adriatic hinterland are well worth the journey to reach the tranquil village of Montepagano. Here one finds a restaurant of original and engaging character, which defines itself as a ‘ristorante diffuso’: a concept given tangible form by a succession of rooms, dining spaces and intimate period salons, punctuated by strikingly contemporary works of art, as though one were moving through a miniature village within the village. The gastronomic direction is entrusted to a chef of considerable ability, capable of conveying through simple yet imaginative

Vecchia Marina is renowned in the region (and further afield) for its superb fish and seafood and excellent value for money (the tasting menu priced at under 40 euros is truly extraordinary). Situated just a stone’s throw from the beach, the restaurant has a simple, informal feel, where the full focus is on the flavour of the fresh fish served in traditional dishes such as linguine with langoustine, garlic, olive oil and rosemary, and raw fish featuring the catch of the day. As you can imagine, booking well in advance is highly recommended!

Having just celebrated their 50th anniversary (they opened in 1971), this restaurant and hotel of the same name remain a solid culinary reference on the Abruzzi coast. The menu here is dedicated solely to fish and, as a result and is often the case, the wine list focuses almost exclusively on white wines. The fish (almost all of which comes from the Adriatic) is carefully sourced, while in the kitchen the chefs prepare classic dishes (such as enormous local langoustines cooked – and served – in a pan with oil, wine, garlic and rosemary) and a few more modern recipes (crispy mullet served with

A restaurant tucked into an intimate corner of the historic center, with spaces characterized by brick vaulting that creates a pleasant contrast with some modern touches in the furnishings. Here, Enzo Di Pasquale – through a tasting format where diners freely choose dishes and quantities – celebrates the seasonality of mostly plant-based and local products, sometimes sourced directly from his own garden. The dishes are absolutely original (like the restaurant’s name: if you're curious, ask for an explanation from the staff) and always very colorful. The philosophical thread is a commendable “n

Borgo Spoltino occupies a 19C farmhouse amid hills and olive groves with views of the sea and mountains as a backdrop. This is the perfect setting in which to enjoy typical Abruzzi cuisine (most of the vegetables come from the restaurant’s own kitchen garden). These include traditional specialities such as sweet pizza (alternating layers of sponge cake soaked in Kermes liqueur, pudding and custard – a bit like a trifle – with a thick cream and slivers of almond, either on top or in the middle). The wine list features a good selection of regional wines, alongside labels from further afield.

With a long history, this restaurant has a contemporary vibe, where expert management offers exclusively seafood dishes, with well executed classic preparations, elevated by careful plating and lively pairings, often featuring fresh vegetables. Both the menu and the wine list are still handwritten, but the overall quality is thoroughly modern.