L'Abri d'Arlos

A rustic-contemporary-style restaurant that has gradually enhanced the comfort of its facilities to create a welcoming ambience featuring open stonework, a plethora of wood, plus an attractive glass-enclosed wine cellar. Its consistent cuisine, modern in composition and mainly built around seasonal ingredients, is centred around the à la carte and two fixed-options. A standout dish is the flame-grilled aubergine ravioli with porcini mushrooms, black garlic, cured egg yolk and confit neck of baby goat.

In his stronghold in the Hôtel du Barry, at the foot of the Pyrenees, is a chef who knows his stuff: his intelligent, technically sound cuisine (eg low-temperature cooking, espumas and dashi stock) also hints at the 14 years he spent in Asia. The onsen-style slow-cooked egg served with a trilogy of Tarbais beans and mushrooms is one of his specialities. Attentive service and comfortable guestrooms mean there's no reason not to prolong the experience.