大阪北滨布莱顿酒店

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

The restaurant is tastefully appointed with the ambience of a tea house, with an elegant gate, garden path and waiting area. Chinese medicinal drinks served with waka poetry bring to mind the Kinki region’s history as a centre of medicinal wholesaling. Also telling a tale is the menu, whose chakaiseki offerings incorporate Osaka touches. Sembajiru wharf soup, with dashi drawn from vegetable offcuts, conveys respect for ingredients; tea poured by the chef soothes the soul. This is fare that conveys the richness of Japanese culture.

‘Sinae’ is an acronym for ‘simple, natural, essence’. The chef presents his cuisine with simplicity, naturally using seasonal domestic ingredients to draw out the essence of each. Cooking like this that respects their aromas and flavours requires delicate preparation. Pure-white vessels take on colour from the foods that grace them, making the white of the margins all the more beautiful. The beige keynote of the dining room enfolds the diner in warmth.

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

Sea bream is marinated in kombu, gizzard shad in vinegar; sushi rice is seasoned with red vinegar and salt. The scrupulous training the chef received as an apprentice pervades every aspect of the restaurant. Nigirizushi begins with pale white-flesh fish. Tuna, served three pieces in succession, leaves an impact. Sushi rice is served on the warm side, the better to bring out the sweetness of the fish oil. Simmered conger eel brings the meal to a close, as in the old days. The restaurant stands on the river’s edge, so you can watch the boats plying the waters below as you dine.

La Bécasse aspires to greet guests with something new and exciting every time they visit. Rather than follow past recipes, the restaurant enlivens familiar ingredients with creative preparation techniques and sauces. A sojourn in France taught the chef the importance of terroir, the characteristics of the land from which sprouts the character of each ingredient. To convey the blessings of each season, the chef visits markets daily, seeking new ways to reflect Japanese terroir through French cooking.