杭州市香祭隐语精品酒店

The owner, who hails from Shaoxing, insists on driving back to his hometown every other day to source the freshest ingredients for his restaurant – which explains why the menu is handwritten on a white board and different every day. That said, the must-try stinky tofu is a permanent fixture: made with 20-plus-year-old fermenting brine from his family, it has rich deep flavours that complement the lamb brain it is steamed with. Try the river fish, too.

This shop may lack a snazzy decor, and nobody gets a table to themselves, but there are always queues eager to be cooked for by the self-proclaimed "noodle king". The signature tomato sauce noodles with scrambled eggs are tangy and appetising, best enjoyed with a sprinkle of pork cracklings. All made-to-order, the delicious toppings are served piping hot – try the deep-fried carp. Those with a big appetite can even get extra noodles for free.

Jade-coloured archways, silk-clad panels and organic light fixtures evoke a classical Hangzhou garden with a stylised touch. Similarly, the seasoned fine dining kitchen team adds novel twists to Ningbo classics. Marinated raw crab in a spicy sour sauce boasts briny sweetness, gelatinous texture and buttery roe. Crispy skin pigeon leg is deboned and stuffed with the bird’s breast; Sichuan pepper cuts through the richness.

Adjacent to Xiangji Temple, this Jiangnan-style villa stands in a manicured garden with a bamboo grove, a rockery and water features. There are no à la carte options and diners pre-order either the classic or seasonal set menu. Nationwide sourced produce is deftly finessed with Chinese and Western techniques into dishes with potential health benefits. Their winter melon and glasswort soup is slowed cooked for two hours and nicely perfumed in pine nut oil.

Since 1987, diners have been flocking here for authentic traditional Hangzhou food. The head chef excels at preparing river fish, such as river shrimps in Huadiao wine, a feast of runny roe, briny-sweet meat and mesmerising aromas. With a bit of luck, you will get to savour the tender oily flesh of steamed river eel with Chinese ham – best enjoyed with their home-brewed bayberry wine. Ask the servers about the daily specials.

A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

The sign says ‘1987’ because that is when the owner became a professional chef. Known for authentic Hangzhou cooking at bargain prices, this neighbourhood joint does not have a paper menu. Pick your own river fish and veggies, and specify how you want them cooked or check out the blackboard for specials. Sweet and sour pork ribs boast a crisp crust covered in a punchy sauce. Finish with sweet glutinous rice wine with osmanthus aroma made from house-made distillers’ grains.